DIY

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Share your self-made stuff and half-baked projects here.

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founded 2 years ago
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'sup, comrades? i figured we could maybe do with a weekly DIY thread on what we're working on, inspired by the rad "Show & Tell" thread from two weeks ago.

what do you have going on, what are you working on?

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Hi all, I'm reaching out to the community to help with the design of a hex clock.

I'm honestly very lost on where to start. My current plan is to buy some gears and make a large monstrosity which is unlikely to fit on a wall. Does anyone have a more elegant suggestion?

It's following the general design of a clock with two main differences:

  1. There are 256 seconds in the second hands rotation.
  2. There are 4 hands, the 4th of which measures ~136 years in a rotation.
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Seems interesting as a YT alternative for show-casing DIY projects.

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Most of this sub is links to youtube tutorials. Lets flip that! post something you completed, is a WIP or tell us about something thats a Dream DIY of yours.

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Hi DIY punks! I need a little help with something. I've been trying all sorts of ways to home carbonate things as sustainably as possible. Most have not really worked out as intended, but I'm really really close on this latest attempt. This version is to connect a CO2 tank to a whipped cream dispenser.

Basically, the path from the tank looks like this:

...and the path from the dispenser looks like this:

So, I need an adapter to hook up the 3/8"-24UNF female to the mystery connection. It seems to start screwing in for a couple turns, but then won't go any further, so my guess is that it's the same diameter with different threading? Note that, in the link for the mystery hookup, I removed the TR21-4 at the end, because that's for directly hooking up to a small tank. The mystery connection I'm talking about is the male threaded part you can see screwing into the TR21-4 connector.

It doesn't seem like many people are doing this, or know what most of the industry standard connections actually are. See this thread here for example. Consequently, I have no idea if the mystery eBay hookup I bought even works, despite that being its entire purpose. The interior of the CO2 cartridge puncturing mechanism is a black box to me, so I'm just trusting this M22 connection is all that's required. There's definitely some kind of one-way valve in there, but hopefully it doesn't somehow require being "pushed" by the cartridge itself.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/1581214

I posted this to zerowaste since it's all made of old lumber I found on trash day or got from my local Everything is Free page, but I know the DIY community is a bit more active so I thought I'd share it here too. If you like this sort of thing, I've got more posted over there.

There are bats living around my parent's house. I wanted to build them a house of their own. They seem to like the barn - we think the scratches on the wall below the eaves might be from bats landing and climbing their way up into shelter. They only seem to exist below the eaves, so I'm hoping that's a good sign that they'll notice their new house quickly.

If you've seen my other posts here, you'll know I try to make everything I build out of old materials, stuff I find on trash day, pull from construction debris, or get from my local Everything is Free page, so that was part of the challenge of building this one. I pretty much managed it - the only thing I bought new was the caulking I used to seal the joints, everything else, wood, stains, screws, bituthene, etc was all old stuff.

I started with a kind of motley collection of materials but I like the challenge of finding secondhand stuff that'll work. On the uphand, I didn't have to cut up bigger lumber just to make the spacers, they were all small scraps from other projects. I don't remember where I got the nice piece of half-inch cabinet plywood. The 3/8" plywood came from a fellow I met through Everything is Free, and the pine boards were found on trash day.

I followed this guide from the state of Massachusetts as closely as I could since we're in a similar region, though I had to make it slightly narrower than the specified 17.5 inches because of the dimensions of the 1/2" plywood. I also made the roof slightly wider, because the board was already that length and it seemed like it would offer additional protection, so no need to shorten it.

We had access to a laser cutter through a local makerspace, so my SO and I decided to burn a paisley pattern into the smaller panels just as a quick flourish. I'm actually very pleased with how that little detail looked on the finished version, and it's something I'll play with in future furniture building projects. The sides were slightly longer than the laser cutter's working space, so I had to carve a little of the pattern by hand, but once it was stained they blended in pretty well.

The instructions tell you to cut groves into the interior surfaces to make it easier for the bats to climb. For most of them I did regular horizontal lines, 1/4" to 1/2" apart, but I got bored a couple times and cut climbable murals instead. I tried to emphasize lots of horizontal handholds, and I made sure that each compartment got at least one regular 'ladder' too. Given that they seem to already be climbing the wooden siding of the barn, I think they'll still find this pretty usable.

The instructions all said to stain it with water based stain so the fumes/smell wouldn't bother the bats. I did all the interior surfaces with a can of expresso water-based stain and the outside surfaces with two coats of oil-based stain for improved water resistance (and because I ran out of the water-based stuff). I left all the panels leaning upright on our porch for several weeks so they could offgas with good ventilation, prior to assembly. All the stains came from Everything is Free.

I decided to stain the paisley panels with red mahogany stain and the rest with two coats of ebony to give them a little more contrast. This left the roof and front stained black for maximum sun-warming. On the front paisley panel, which had a frame around the pattern, I did my best to do the inside in red and the frame in black, to match the sides. It was all pretty much hidden by the very distinct grain that piece of plywood happened to have. A prestain might have helped, though I mostly wish I'd had more of the cabinet plywood I used for the upper front and back.

I started assembly by attaching the back to the sides, and started that by caulking the joint. The silicone caulking was the only thing I bought new for this project. I could probably have kept asking around until I found some, but I settled for giving the rest of the tube away on Everything is Free because I didn't think I'd use it for anything before it expired. The directions emphasized that you really want a good seal everywhere except the specified vents, because the bats need to be warm and dry, so I made sure to seal all the exterior joints well.

Once it was all assembled, I added a coat of oil-based urethane to the top and sides of the roof to help with water resistance. If it warped, that could allow drafts and additional moisture intrusion. I also added little bits of trim to the sides under the roof, after sealing that joint a second time.

We hung it partly using some metal strips my dad had from past projects, for attaching chimneys to the roofing around them. They were galvanized and a kind of corrugated pattern. I found two sets of two where the existing holes lined up, and drilled two new ones in each set so they all had four. Then I painted them and attached them to the back.

Another relative provided a scrap of bituthene which we stuck/stapled to the roof for additional waterproofing.

Once it was ready, I pushed it to the top of a tall ladder leveled it against the wall, and put two screws through each metal bracket, then two screws through the landing strip at the bottom, and two toenailed in through the vents on the sides. I'm told that was overkill but I really didn't want any bats we housed to fall off the wall someday. At this point, if it goes, it'll take the siding with it.

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Obviously there's lots to improve here, but for plenty of people this is a great starting point.

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Hi

I'm interested in building my own solar panels mostly for educational purposes. The idea is to use individual solar cells and solder 36 of them in series to get about 18V open circuit voltage. It's what commercial solar panels have as well so its easier to integrate later.

The cells are bonded to the substrate using optically clear silicone or EVA. Not sure which is better. Polyurethane is not good because the mere mention of humidity will cause tons of bubbles.

As for the substrate. Optically clear tempered glass is prohibitively expensive unless bought in bulk. Normal glass is significantly cheaper but could that be a safety hazard? I seriously doubt that thermal shocks are strong enough to break glass sheets unless cold rain falls on it.

Has anyone tried plexiglass/acrylic? It's UV resistant but could bend/warp at higher temperatures breaking the cells.

Perhaps using screen protectors for obsolete phones/tablets could work as well. It's really thin and strong but I don't know it holds up in a hailstorm.

Would love to hear from your experiences in DIY solar panels.

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cross-posted from: https://jorts.horse/users/fathermcgruder/statuses/110789232582943740

What's a good torque wrench to get?

I want to replace the spark plugs in my car and I'm apparently going to have to torque them to 30Nm. #diy #tools

@tools

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I love this person and everything they do.

Here's his take on the latest project, in this video:

This year I attended an art workshop on publishing and print-making. The goal was to make an art book, with total freedom of form and design. Here is "unrolling", my take on the (broad) concept of a book, with scrolls, spools and rolls.

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IMHO way too big to be usable, but it is an interesting experiment of what can be done with off-the-shelf components.

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