ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/
view the rest of the comments
If you build using nice!nano controllers, you can get batteries that fit neatly under the (socketed) controller, you can just tuck it in there loose or tape it in place. If you use those batteries, which are very small, it's best to build the board without any power-drawing features, such as LED illumination or OLED display. Most PCBs that are designed for batteries will put contacts in that vicinity, or you can wire the batteries directly the nice!nanos.
If you build this way, there's no impact on the external size or portability. If you want to use larger batteries, you will need to make room in the case for them, if you're using a case. [I have some chunky batteries taped to the bottom of my caseless Kyria, which is obviously not doing anything good for portable use or aesthetics, but it does work.)
If you haven't used ZMK before, that will be a bit of a transition. ZMK is great, and in some ways it's a much more elegant solution than QMK, but it can be a little tricky to get used to at first and if anything goes wrong, troubleshooting is usually more annoying.
For portable use, a PCB that supports a power switch to disconnect the battery from the controller is kind of essential IMO, since without a hardware switch, there's no way to turn the board off or put it to sleep. So if it's in your bag, it'll constantly be waking up and connecting to your phone if paired.
I do enjoy LEDs because I like to color-code my layers but I don't need a display. If the battery fits under the MCU then this sounds ideal but if I have to charge it every 2 hours because it has to be small then it won't be worth it for me.
Thanks for the advice.