SmoochyPit

joined 4 months ago
[–] [email protected] 8 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Here’s my results:

From top to bottom in pictures:

  • 45 degrees with organic supports on entire bottom shaft (not in second image)
  • Horizontal with organic supports on entire bottom shaft
  • Vertical with organic supports on bottom end bit and a few spots on the shaft near the bottom

Here’s my thoughts on them:


The 45 degree one was really poor quality on the bottom… and the back part snapped when I was trying to remove supports. It likely would’ve been a bit stronger printing with taller layers, but the bottom edge seems tricky to support regardless.

The horizontal one turned out well. The bottom side has a rough finish from where the supports connected, but I think being more picky about painting on supports and giving that side a quick shave after printing would fix. The tip is still pretty smooth, to my surprise! Also, this printed twice as quick as the vertical one, since I didn’t have to slow any movements. I can’t break this one even if I try— it’s super strong, the bridge included. Just bends. That said, the nub on this one is more of a nub than a bump, a bit sharper. Between that and the surface on the bottom, it doesn’t fit in my 3ds without doing any shaving or sanding. However, the “tail” part, which shows in the 3ds, is smoothest off-the-bed in this orientation.

Lastly, I printed another vertical one because I wanted to figure out why the bridge at the bottom wasn’t complete in the sliced model:

My solution was reducing the “minimum perimeter width” for the Arachne generator down to 50% (of the nozzle diameter) from 85%. Anyways, this print has a smoother, shinier finish along the shaft and tip. On this print, the nub near the bottom is more of a gradual bump compared to the horizontal one. With this print, though, as the height increases, you can see a bit of wobble and there is a Z-seam running up the shaft. Also, I don’t trust bending this stylus very much, especially the bridge part, since that’s what broke first last time. Seems sturdier this time with the perimeter change, but only a bit. And finally, the “tail” is the roughest here, since it’s the part that was connected to the raft. It’s probably worth sanding it down to get a good finish there.

Here’s the model if you’d like to print one for yourself: https://www.printables.com/model/158481-new-nintendo-3ds-stylus

Anyways, I’ve learned a lot in this process. And now I can play Ace Attorney with a stylus again!!

[–] [email protected] 9 points 4 months ago

It just like me fr 🥺

[–] [email protected] 1 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (1 children)

Bit late with my reply here, but this is absolutely possible! It may be worth using the “data pack” functionality, but the primary data pack logic is commands at its core!

It’s not quite what you’re looking for, but my own Warp Pads and KawaMood’s Waystones both accomplish similar things, though without a central hub. Both are open-source. Your case would probably be easier, since you could store the destination alone rather than maintaining one or more lists of valid destinations.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 4 months ago (3 children)

Super small youtuber, but I really look up to TyraLore. Her videos are all about the Minecraft Create mod, but her way of explaining everything, as well as her creativity in her survival series, have really inspired me to play Minecraft again.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 4 months ago

Huge inspiration for me!

[–] [email protected] 5 points 4 months ago

Probably one of those level >50 cadets. Drops in at the end of dives, always extracts successfully.

[–] [email protected] 23 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Gonna have to this treason to our democracy officer, tin can apologist

(Works through proton for me, so I can’t complain too much. I wish more games would use server-side anticheat though, as it’s the only catchall solution anyways and isn’t intrusive)

[–] [email protected] 4 points 4 months ago

Haha, welllllll fwiw I had to tinker with slicer settings for a few iterations before 😅 keeping the raft in place for the top layers was a bit tricky.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Definitely would’ve been easier to print (less tinkering with slicer settings), too. But I think because the layer time was so quick, it’s surprisingly well-bonded.

That’s still the first direction it’s snap in, but I think it’s good enough for my use-case.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Thank you for the design! It’s working great so far, but if it breaks I’ll give that a shot.

Also I agree, I should have linked it. Sorry about that. I posted it to 196 because it was the most recent picture in my camera roll, but it really would’ve made sense to link it in the follow up pictures. I’ll edit that comment to point to yours, just in case.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 4 months ago

It’s handy for sure, but the effort that has gone into learning about and using it for me has been a lot more than I expected. It’s become a total hobby for me!

It could be worth checking if you have a local library or maker space with 3D printers available~

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