3DPrinting

I am using the Creality ender 3 v3 SE with eSuns PLA+ in black. The recommended printing temperature is 205-220 and I am printing at 210. The bed is set to 65°. When I print somewhat flat parts. The edges warp off the plate, while the printer is running and the plate is still hot. Until a few days ago it worked perfectly and I don't know what I am doing different.

It is always only the first few layers, and the print never moves, so that the printer would make spaghetti, its just the edges that lift of a few millimeters.

I was gifted an unused Ender 3 Pro two weeks ago and managed to model and print an adapter to connect Sony E-Mount cameras onto a 42mm dovetail used by microscopes.

Bed adhesion, leveling, stringing, clearance issues, blobs and permanently welded supports, I got to battle it all but thanks to the massive volume of community support I worked my way though.

Sorry, this is not really 3d printing related. But as we have some cool folks here OS wise. I hopped you could help or point me the correct way.

As I have mentioned before my brother and I own a tiny narrow boat we are doing up.

The engine room is a nightmare. 4ft high with no top access. We are disabled (visual and flexibility basically old can't bend and classed as blind but some vision. ) So we have difficulty measuring exact space in a room we have to crawl through. Well it's very like Star Trek Jeffries tubes but greasy. ;)

We need to plan and mount electronics in there to support our use. (I sought advice on printing to help with this a while back and got fantastic help)

I am now starting to think having a 3d model of the engine room would make working out the layout much easier. So here is where advice is needed.

We are skint (poor for the US) so spending 1000s ain't an option. And likely not worth it anyway.

I have heard of android apps that use photographs. And that level of accuracy is likely fine for our planning needs.

But I'm a Linux 100% user. Since the late 90s So need some way to do this that can be done on Linux and fed into FreeCAD and or Blender.

Does anyone know much about tools in this space. And what the process for doing this with photographs is?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.nowsci.com/post/9782596

Hi all,

I've finally gotten around to releasing these formally after much testing of prints and usage.

The Twystlock system is a set of 100% 3D printable gaming accessories that require no printed supports or additional parts. This means no springs to buy and no metal elements to melt in, just access to a 3D printer and a bit of super glue. Originally designed for the Steam Deck, these accessories can be applied to the case of any mobile gaming device.

The Twystlock connector itself is designed as a quick-connect that secures parts together with a simple twist motion, can be fully recreated with affordable home-based 3D printers, and doesn't require complicated supports to print. The first use of this connector has been for the Steam Deck, specifically to supply an alternative accessory platform that is more accessible to the everyday 3D printing hobbyist, however it could be utilized as a connector in almost any environment.

Feel free to download what you like, and if you would like to request a new accessory design, or vote on the next accessory to be created, please visit our Lemmy community at https://lemmy.world/c/[email protected].

There's a number of options and I was a bit overwhelmed, is there a comprehensive write up, copypasta, or something of the like?

Thinking about getting my first printer to print some organization stuff around the house, some nerf parts, as well as some small toys and fidget for friends/kids. The Bambu Lab A1 seems to be notable for being beginner friendly without a lot of fiddling.

Read recently about the lawsuit and I'm wondering if I should wait until that's resolved before pulling the trigger. I'm worried that some outcome there will eliminate important features or worst case make it obsolete entirely. Any thoughts?

I am (slowly) working on mounting ACM panels to my Voron 2.4 to try to get my chamber temps up to reduce/eliminate warping on big ASA prints. I only needed 12 of these parts, so I chose to print them sequentially.

Want to know how slow my progress has been? Well, this photo proceeded this post and I made that post weeks ago... I'll crack open the cable chain and get this ball rolling again soon. Or maybe I'll ditch the chains and go to a USB toolhead. But that will require me to print some parts, so I guess I have to fix this. And if I'm doing that it's going to probably be 'good enough' for quite some time... 🙃

There's nothing major in the print queue, but I do want to make sure the printer is ready to go when something does turn up.

I'm looking at making a new printer. I'm thinking a core XY similar to a Voron, but I would be making it from scratch. I'm looking for something I can make reliable and accurate. I want to print PLA, ABS, TPU and more. I have a bunch of parts now that I would stick to.

235mm heated bed Revo hot end Nema 17 motors. BTT E3 mini, although I could use my SKR3 instead.

The easiest would be a bed slinger, but I am open to a Trident style. I like unique and challenging things.

What new features should I include? What should I avoid?

One painful firmware update later and the z-offset bug that has plagued me since getting the Neptune 4 Pro is finally resolved and first layers are good again just like that. I just had to share the thrilling end result.

I made a magsafe mount in black for my Kia and I didn't like the layer lines on the curved parts, but it gave me the idea to try using wood

I have a 3D Chameleon MMU so I added color changes randomly throughout between two shades of brown. One is wood, one is PLA.

It honestly came out way better than I even expected!

If anyone wants the STL I can provide it!

Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? I'm interested in the linear rail upgrade and CoreXY as well for higher printspeeds.

I sometimes attach a small PCB drill to my Ender5 to help with diy PCBs and may want to try basic CNC milling as well with it.

There are two kits for the Ender5, one for the Ender5 Pro and Ender5 Plus. The difference is in the size of the linear rails. Do the rails for the Ender5 Plus fit on the Ender5? On paper they are smaller than the size of the frame and in the future I might upgrade the Ender 5 to a bigger frame. I don´t mind if they stick out a little bit if it makes upgradability better.

The extruder suddenly stopped working after I cleared a jam that caused it to grind.

• I tried every combination of motor and cable to trace the problem. It seems the only fault is the extruder's motherboard connector.

• The motor is functional. I connected it to the XYZ motor cables and it spins on every one.

• Nothing happened when I tried plugging the other axis cables into the extruder port on the motherboard.

• Finally, I am comfortable using a multimeter and soldering iron, but don't have immediate access to them.

I really appreciate any advice on this because I miss printing!

Looks neat.

1st time printing with ASA and it's my largest print that doesn't have any straight lines. I typically only design things with straight lines, pretty pleased with how this turned out. Threw in a cactus to fend off the cats but fortunately they don't seem very interested. Printed on a Bambu X1 carbon with Polymaker ASA.

I WANT IT.

It probably costs several million dollars. I have no idea what I'd do with it.

I see so much info about printing with larger nozzles and such. Not much on smaller. Is there anything I should worry about that I might not be expecting?

This doesn’t sound like an issue for those who use Fusion frequently, however you may want to find ways to get local files, just to be safe.

The test prints in the image use the 0.2mm detail mode and 0.07mm ultradetail mode

I recently got a SV06, my first 3D printer, about a month and a half ago. About a week ago I started to find really bad oozing/ stringing on all of my prints, to the point that any functional prints are basically unusable. So far what I have tried is:

• Cleaning the nozzle, inside and out, using a damp cloth and the metal needle tool that came with the printer.
• Drying the filament. I had two rolls that I was using for the current print, so I used a DIY Dryer to dry both rolls, each on 70 degrees celcius for 4+ hours.

Neither of these have worked. What should I do next?

Not me, I found this :)

I have had my Creality Ender 3 Pro for a while now and I have upgraded it quite a lot. Lately I have been thinking about wether I should put in some more money (better hotend, maybe new steppers, maybe enclosure, maybe part cooling fan) or if I should buy a new printer that is a more of complete package. A bit more build volume would be nice as well.

I am intrigued by the Bambu Labs printers but I don't like their somewhat proprietary approach. So I have been looking around for competitors and I saw that Creality has shown their new K2 Plus with an AMS. I wonder if it's worth waiting for that. The specs sound good. Is the K1 good now? I heard it had some problems in the beginning.

Prusa video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO2MaQrUcqE

TL;DR For those who don't want to watch 10-minute video:

0. MK4 to MK4s uprade kit: 109€ + shipping (MK4 customer will receive a voucher (except shipping cost))

1. Larger cooling fan

2. Improved cooling duct

3. high flow nozzle

4. NFC for app

5. some parts upgraded from PETG to PC-CF

6. MK4s still ship without an accelerometer. Prusa claims this isn't needed.

7. No camera.

8. No upgrades for the Prusa XL in the near future!!!!

other stuff:

• accelerometer board

• GPIO board

Personal Opinion:

This should have been the MK4 to begin with and shows once more how blindsided Prusa was. BambuLab put so much pressure on them that they had to publish the MK4 in the state it is.

Regrading the Prusa XL the trouble continues. This launch/printer has been riddled by issues after issue and now the statement that the improved part cooling won't make it to the XL in the near future.... My guess it that they screwed up with the XL and didn't consider large toolheads at the design stage favoring a 5 toolhead design over a 4 head option and now run into the same issue I do with the E3D (it can fit those 6023 fans but not like they mount it on the MK4s). For example, with my E3D tool changer, a tool must fit within a 85mm(w) x 60mm(depth) surface area.

For the technical side?

The larger fan is great as it allows to use fans with decent pressure at the target airflow with a low noise. Those 4020 found on most printers aren't a great choice.

High flow nozzle? Yeah ... nothing groundbreaking or new.

NFC and app? A year ago was prusa connect at best a beta. Maybe a an alpha as I would need to restart the printer twice a day because it froze/crash. The value here depends on if they meanwhile fixed it or it is still a joke.

GPIO board? Depends. Might be held back by the firmware as those things require macros to be useful and Prusa firmware never was build around this idea. Still nice to see them publishing this.

I was thinking about this question today as someone used our work printer for some personal stuff.

As for me, I am printing little things that I would say make it worth it. I've printed lens adapters for my camera for example. That's worth a good 14 to 30 bucks per print. My most favorite photo was with an adapted lens that came from a projector. I also printed IEMs and those things are worth it. Listening to music is second to none on those things. Plus I printed the same shell but for ear protection and again the fit is perfect and sure there's post processing to get smooth surfaces but in the end it looks like a professional made it. So I think 3d printers are worth it.

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/23562018

Mere days after photos of a 35x35 surfaced, Preston Alden has unveiled a 49x49:

It weighs 30 kg, stands 34 cm tall, and consists of 13,827 pieces. Every piece of the cube was 3D printed using PETG plastic (aside from the bolts and springs).

Congratulations to Preston on such an incredible achievement. I've never seen olzing on such a large puzzle!

More info on the twistypuzzles forum: https://twistypuzzles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39559