What are your favorite prints when you have too little filament left on a spool for anything interesting and you just need to finish it off?

Hi

I've bought myself a used Biqu B1 with a BLTouch for a fair price. The seller said that he never got the BLTouch working. Now I`m trying to get the auto leveling to work, but every tutorial and video shows the ABL option in the menu, but i do not have that option. The BLTouch is connected as every video and instruction manual shows, the sensor has flipped down a couple of times so that too is working, and the red led-light i always on. Other menu-guides shown in different internet tutorials also shows minor menu variations from my printer.

Some useful info: System: Marlin 2.1.1 Board: Bigtreetech_TFT35_B1_V3.0 Firmware: TFT35_B1_V3.0.26.x Me: Complete noob with no knowledge of 3D printing lingo

What should be done to get the ABL option in my menu?

Hello all, I am considering on getting a 3D printer. I want to print some stuff for a project. I am relatively new to this. I need the slicer software to be compatible (preferably open source) with linux since that's what I am using. I have only found the stuff from Prusa to be compatible but they are expensive. I have heard of ender 3 but it is the only os printer by creality and saw the repo is 3yo without updates.

Can I get some suggestions?

I am fed up with resin slicers.

Chitubox is about as stable as a drunk on a tightrope, Lychee is bad for engineering models and over-priced if you just want some basic support functions and PrusaSlicer is under-developed. All of these solutions work for different things based on the goals of the user. (For some, Lychee is an excellent value so my distaste is likely not universal.)

What really pissed me off is that support painting shouldn't be a paid feature. You hold the mouse button down and drop a support at specific distance from the last. It doesn't take massive cloud computational clusters or huge storage requirements but yet, money. Fuck. That.

I want a completely FOSS tool that is stable and includes functionality for auto-positioning models and has a full set of knobs and levers for support generation, support painting included.

So, I spent the morning getting a dev environment setup for PrusaSlicer to use as a base for resin-only tools. Over the next month or so, I'll take some time to strip out all the FDM support and get the slicer into a bare-bones state with only the existing resin features. Of course, it'll be on GitHub.

Back to the main subject. I was hoping that y'all had references in regards to anything resin printing: Support placement methods, model rotation optimization, resin strength data, FEP peel force data or anything that could be coded and implemented into a slicer. Hell, even discovering different methods for hollowing an STL would be nice.

Data and strategies for various tools would be nice to have at this point to at least start forming a roadmap for development. (One of the first goals is to integrate UVTools as a snap-in, somehow.)

FDM tools are plentiful because of wide spread adoption. Resin printers still seem niche so printer manufacturers naturally gravitate to writing their own tools for their own hardware in their race to the bottom.

With all of that said, I am actually curious if others would even want to see a project like this kicked off.

Find the design on Printables: Wedge Laptop-stand by impulse1delta

Pardon the stupid question, but I have 3m command hooks. I need to create the opposite. I have a tiny dry erase board I want to hold up with said hooks and have it be removable. I need to create holes/holder/mounting points to adhere to the dry erase board. What are those called?

I tried searching "command hooks" but it gives me the hooks themselves. How do I search for the opposite? What are they even called?

I have never used a 3d printer. But have done a little research.

Be great if someone could confirm my intention is sane.

I have loads of Linux experience so my plans relate to open source all the way.

First off I am brassic(poor). So looking cheap all the way. My brother and I have a tiny narrowboat we are refitting. And plan to use the printer for stuff within the boat.

Due to this printing PA6 to go in the bilge is important. (Diesel and water bad for most other plastics)

As we are both vision impaired and old. The idea is most of the electrical mountings etc will be self designed and painted to make future access quick and easy with our rapidly worsening vision.

So my plan. I am looking at a elegoo Neptune 4 pro.

Because it is cheap but great value. Uses kipper. And seems easy to modify as I grow in use. Also supports temps needed for PA6 etc.

But I will need an enclosure to work with PA 6 and a dryer.

Dryer is cheap not an issue.

But I'm thinking of a tent enclosure. Some good well insulated ones on amazon for £50 with hose to vent out smells.

Will one of these tents be suitable for keeping temperature stable while printing PA6. And can anyone offer other advice for cheap solutions to make this easy.

On a related novice front.

Gue to the vision. One of the projects is to print mounting boards for din rail fuses etc. The idea being to mix colours.

Ie flat surface faces from and back in white. The the inner support fram in a bright colour. This will mean holes to support thumb screws etc for easy low vision future maintainance. IE easy to find the pre set screw holes.

This plan means I can swap colours when printing layers so should be easy without over (for me) briced multi head printer.

But can anyone share experience with doing this with nylon. IE how dose delays in printing the layers while swapping filament t effect the linking of those layers.

As I say complete novice o the actual doing this so any advice will be helpful.

I’m looking for some advice on how to bond a post-processed resin printed piece to a large PLA print. I assume my options are either superglue or maybe brushing resin onto the PLA, attaching the resin print, and hitting it with a UV light?

Is there a better way? Thanks!

Very nice practical example of printed test jigs for PCB assembly testing. Newpipe is down ATM, so if you're looking for something to watch, this might burn 32 minutes. I found it mildly inspirational to get making/designing some stuff again.

Openscad wanted about 25 gig of RAM to crunch this.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a weird issue with text such as the one in this image. Big or small, fancy or regular, all text comes out looking like it does in the image - cracked and hollow. I've spent the last few days trying to figure out why, and I'm stumped.

I've tried printing slower and slower and adding more and more top layers (the bottom 2 bottle caps are completely solid with 100% infil), but it doesn't seem to fix the issue.

Here's what I'm working with:

• Ender 3
  • Software 2.0.8.27
  • Hardware 4.2.2
• CR Touch
• PrusaSlicer 2.8.0
• MakerBot PLA Filament
• I've used various temperatures and speeds. All of them have generated the terrible text you see here

Thanks in advanced for the help!

Update: We seem to be getting somewhere!

The top 2 are the same ones featured in the post above. The bottom left was printed at 110% extrusion and normal speed. The bottom right was printed at 110% extrusion and a much slower speed for the text, and it looks much better! I'm printing another now with higher bridge flow rate (it was 70%, I set it to 85%), so I'll update again in a few minutes when that finishes!

Thanks for the information about calibrating e steps from everyone! It's getting late, so I don't want to mess around with that tonight, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow!

Update 2: welp.

That's possibly the worst one yet. I'm reprinting the bigger insert piece seen in the original post to check if my printer simply can't do that quality or if it's the e steps. If it's e steps, I'm going to bed...

Update 3:

Welp, seems like it's the e-step. However, it's too late for me to care about that right now, so I'm going to bed. Thanks for the help everyone! I'll work on fixing the issue tomorrow

I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this. I'm having an issue with my Sovol SV06, which is that I get a lot of stringing. I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, so I have no idea what could cause this and how I could go about fixing this. I already searched for this issue online btw but didn't really find anything helpful.

The only change I made to this printer is that I hooked up a Raspberry Pi 4 to it and installed Klipper and Octoprint. I'm also using PrusaSlicer with the config from here.

Edit: Forgot to mention I was using PLA for this print

This was my very first 3D print on an Anycubic Photon D2. Turned out much better than I expected

We're happy to announce that BusKill is presenting at DEF CON 32.

What: Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord
When: 2024-08-10 12:00 - 13:45
Where: W303 – Third Floor – LVCC West Hall

BusKill is presenting at DEF CON 32

via @[email protected]

What is BusKill?

BusKill is a laptop kill-cord. It's a USB cable with a magnetic breakaway that you attach to your body and connect to your computer.

Watch the BusKill Explainer Video for more info youtube.com/v/qPwyoD_cQR4

If the connection between you to your computer is severed, then your device will lock, shutdown, or shred its encryption keys -- thus keeping your encrypted data safe from thieves that steal your device.

What is DEF CON?

DEF CON is a yearly hacker conference in Las Vegas, USA.

Watch the DEF CON Documentary for more info youtube.com/watch?v=3ctQOmjQyYg

What is BusKill presenting at DEF CON?

I (goldfishlaser) will be presenting Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord in a Demo Lab at DEF CON 32.

What: Open Hardware Design for BusKill Cord
When: Sat Aug 10 12PM – 1:45PM
Where: W303 – Third Floor – LVCC West Hall

Who: Melanie Allen (goldfishlaser) More info

Talk Description

BusKill is a Dead Man Switch triggered when a magnetic breakaway is tripped, severing a USB connection. I’ve written OpenSCAD code that creates a 3D printable file for plastic parts needed to create the magnetic breakaway. Should anyone need to adjust this design for variations of components, the code is parameterized allowing for easy customization. To assemble a BusKill Dead Man Switch cord you will need:

1. a usb-a extension cord,
2. a usb hard drive capable of being attached to a carabiner,
3. a carabiner,
4. the plastic pieces in this file,
5. a usb female port,
6. a usb male,
7. 4 magnets,
8. 4 pogo pins,
9. 4 pogo receptors,
10. wire,
11. 8 screws,
12. and BusKill software.

Golden DIY BusKill Print

Full BOM, glossary, and assembly instructions are included in the github repository. The room holds approx. 70 attendees seated. I’ll be delivering 3 x 30 min presentations – with some tailoring to what sort of audience I get each time.

Meet Me @ DEF CON

If you'd like to find me and chat, I'm also planning to attend:

• ATL Meetup (DCG Atlanta Friday: 16:00 – 19:00 | 236),
• Hacker Kareoke (Friday and Sat 20:00-21:00 | 222),
• Goth Night (Friday: 21:00 – 02:00 | 322-324),
• QueerCon Mixer (Saturday: 16:00-18:00 | Chillout 2),
• EFF Trivia (Saturday: 17:30-21:30 | 307-308), and
• Jack Rysider’s Masquerade (Saturday: 21:00 – 01:00 | 325-327)

I hope to print many fun trinkets for my new friends, including some BusKill keychains.

Come to my presentation @ DEF CON for some free BusKill swag

By attending DEF CON, I hope to make connections and find collaborators. I hope during the demo labs to find people who will bring fresh ideas to the project to make it more effective.

I'm looking to buy ups as I have few power outage (last between 1 to 5 seconds max) where I live but I have never used one so don't know what specs should I check for

Ideally I will plug my 3d printer (about 100-160w when printing), a pi 4 with nvme drive (no idea of wattage) and a mini pc with n100 processor (around 10-20W)

Thanks for your advices

Screenshots of the UI changes on the Mac - in my opinion it is now just wasting a lot of screen estate for zero benefit.

On non-Macs they're adding an extra usability issue by hiding the top menu bar. I've gove back to 2.7.4 for now - fortunately I had my configuration in git.

Up to 2.7.4:

2.8.4:

Seems neat. If it wasn't so expensive, I'd try it.

Side note: I wanna know more about that inline filament dryer. I don't like the prep by using a box. I always forget.

I guess they're just going to end up being really good but heavily overpriced like the rest of the FormLabs products.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/17328458

Oh boy, here I go shillin' again.

I just updated my 3D printable balisong utility knife so hard that it wound up with a new name.

As usual, you get the brief version here. Massive amounts of details are located, as ever, in the original post and also at the Printables link.

Want one? Of course you do. Get the files here.

The LinkedIn post OP was referencing in the video. https://www.linkedin.com/feed/update/urn:li:activity:7214228916142534656/

TCT article on the situation.
https://www.tctmagazine.com/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/latest-additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/shapeways-ceases-operations-and-files-for-bankruptcy/

3D Printing Industry article that goes more into the financial side of the issue. https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/shapeways-bankrupt-5m-rescue-bid-rejected-231387/

Hello!

So I decided, as a way to improve my cad skills, that I would take an old laptop of mine and design a case around the motherboard and use it as a micro PC in my work area. I have nearly all of it designed, just shy of the power button.

On account of not having a sautering iron, I would rather avoid sautering a button on and was trying to go a more analogue approach by printing a button into the case that could maybe use a compliant mechanism to press in and come back out, but I am very uncertain how to go about it.

Any help appreciated

Super simple prototype but if it works... Very cool idea!