morbidcactus

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 4 points 15 hours ago* (last edited 15 hours ago)

When I do my own, I'll give the dough a long cold ferment (I've done sourdough and preferment versions of a recipe I like, it's pretty simple just adds some olive oil, Flour Water Salt Yeast has a really decent recipe as well) and stretch it thin.

Sweet + savoury is a favourite of mine, one of the best was

  • heavy herbed olive oil as the base, light
  • caramelised shallots
  • goat cheese
  • prosciutto
  • balsamic vinegar (good stuff preferred, but works with the thinner stuff) Did this with figs too, but you don't need it. As hot as you can go, had good results doing in one of my flatter bottom dutch ovens before.

Yeah I like Hawaiian, but it's way better with peameal bacon or streaky bacon than ham, even better with pickled jalapeños or some other hot pepper

The classic one that my partner and I had when we where dating was

  • green olive
  • bacon The place is closed down now, but it had a really thin, almost Italian style crust, to me that's a classic pizza.

Don't eat a lot of frozen, it's good to have on hand like frozen dumplings as a quick thing, honestly as much as loblaw's sucks (Canadian grocery chain) their brand (President's Choice) makes some really nice pizzas, or Dr Oetker.

Tend to order takeout from local places over chains

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago

There's a profile I tried on my desktop during update 8 that wasn't terrible on an xbox controller, it's surprisingly playable imo, works well with action groups, probably be way nicer on the deck with something like rotary menus on the trackpads and using the back buttons for modifiers.

I'd give it a try anyhow, just probably going to need some fiddling to get where you want.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I'm replaying through the Metroid Prime Trilogy again, primehack is amazing.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 6 days ago

It could totally be setup to feel/work like a trackball, remember playing a bunch of warframe with mine and being able to "throw" it and have it stop when you touch the pad again, took getting used to but substantially more flexible than a regular analogue stick.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 days ago

I thought it looked amazing in cyberpunk, definitely enough to justify performance hits (which still runs totally fine at 3440x1440 on a 4070ti)

Lighting in general makes a huge difference imo, lumen (global illumination) in satisfactory looks fantastic to me, and I'm fine limiting to a lower framerate in a game like that.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Use it constantly, as others have said windows -> type is the best way to use windows, and I do the same thing on my linux machines, actually a lot of the ones I use regularly are the same or similar in KDE (can't recall if it's out of the box or if I configured that)

CTL+windows+arrows to swap desktops (which have been in windows for a while now and I swear no one else uses), lots of ones around those are super useful. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/keyboard-shortcuts-in-windows-dcc61a57-8ff0-cffe-9796-cb9706c75eec for reference.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Would have loved one of those sprinter vans when I did field work, used our utility trailer a lot, but something with a small workbench, lighting and conveniently located inverters would have been amazing.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Just for the heck of it, if you heat protein enough to denature it but have no Maillard reaction (let's say you've just made a hard boiled egg), would that not be considered cooking by that definition?

My understanding is that denaturing is a physical structure change, not a chemical one (and according to Wikipedia can be reversible in some cases), not a biochemist or food scientist though so totally accepting that my understanding is incorrect/incomplete.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

I would be really surprised if anyone is cooling data centres with city water except in emergency, that's so unbelievably expensive (could see water direct from a lake though but that had it's own issues too). I recall saving millions just by adjusting a fill target on an evaporative cooling tower so it wouldn't overfill (levels were really cyclic, targets weren't tuned for them), and that was only a fraction of what it'd have cost if we'd've used pure city.

[–] [email protected] 13 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Just be careful about asking it to create villains capable of outwitting you.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Oh seriously? When there were rumblings of it coming years ago, I just assumed it would be implemented as a VBA successor, have everything local but just baked into excel. I guess I shouldn't be that surprised though...

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago

Harper heads the IDU, dude is pushing it globally. It's been long enough that we forget the Harper years, lots of hints of things we're seeing now

 

Planning on finishing an ercf this year and going can for that so figured good opportunity to swap the hotend over, saved a substantial amount of wiring even compared to the hotend PCB I had, saved the wiring harness just to compare went for a usb can device over running can from the octopus pro, did want to swap the pro over to can as well but ended up keeping it the same instead of messing with reflashing firmware. Hotend has a little 3015 fan and a heatsink on the arm chip so cooling should be fine, looked up the datasheet and it's got a tjmax of like 120c and rated for ambient -40-80c so don't think I need to worry about it, if it's an issue I'll run a fresh air feed to it, will see how it likes abs in the summer shortly.

All in all, super easy swap over, definitely cleaned up my rats nest (though I still should cut the stepper wires to length, they hide in the imitation panduit I printed, it's neat enough to be serviceable and not be a hazard), used katapult (formerly canboot) and then flashed klipper onto the board, only minor issue is it uses these tiny jst connectors, like really small, btt ebb sb2209 and btt u2c usb can device, was a good resource to follow for any of the network interface configs that I needed to do and gave some good details on diagnostics.

 

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

Rough Sanded Front of keychain with image of a Bernese Mountain DogBack of keychain with some details obscured

 

Just as an FYI because it's saved me grief in the past, both klipper and octoprint can be setup to exclude certain objects while printing. You need to setup your slicer to provide gcode that enables the feature, but it allows you to stop printing a bad object, can reduce wastage in the case where only one part has failed but the others are ok.

Prusa/Superslicer are what I have experience using it with, I used a preprocessing script to output compatable gcode but apparently there's a label objects option directly in both slicers, the klipper link below goes over enabling that feature.

AFAIK Octoprint needs a Plugin
Klipper has native support

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