3DPrinting

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Senior Airman Devon Word, a conventional munitions crew chief from the U.S. Air Force’s 48th Munitions Squadron, solved a perennial ammunition handling issue faced by the 48th Fighter Wing at RAF Lakenheath, U.K., which often saw 20 mm rounds jamming while moving from the replenisher table to the ammunition loader. The frequent  jamming makes manual intervention necessary, with “15 minutes of troubleshooting per jam” required which “may also cause injury to the operator.”

In fiscal year 2023, according to the press release, there were 319 operations resulting in an average of 957 instances of jams using the replenisher table. These accounted for approximately 798 man-hours due to the need for at least four personnel during operations.

Word developed a specially designed 3D-printed insert that addressed the old design issue causing the stoppages – a gap between the rounds and the top of the replenisher table. The unit-level innovation could save the 48th FW and U.S. Air Force over 750 man-hours annually, the unit said.

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This is so neat.

Sorry for the potato quality picture. I really thought we were over this since I tune the vref, but I guess not.

Do you guys have any idea why my info would look like this but all the walls on the printer are fine? I assume if it was a clog nozzle it would be inconsistent.

I printed this model on my Anycubic Kobra 2 in white PLA with 0.2mm layer height without supports, 3 walls and 7% adaptive cubic infill. Scaled it to 130% which was the largest I could fit on my bed (220x220), it took 8 hours to print.

I had some issues with curved overhangs (especially around the cheek bones) but otherwise it printed in pretty decent quality, not the best but acceptable I would say. I would probably add organic supports for the cheekbones if I print another.

I can get one for a couple hundred. Is it worth it?

I'm curious about the creative ways people store spools. Seen some interesting ideas online. Share pictures if you can.

Currently, I just have bins full of about a dozen spools each, but it isn't elegant or pretty. Need some new ideas.

I currently run a Voxelab Aquila I got for $120 three years ago. It largely replaced a Monoprice Mini, and the Aquila's done some surprisingly good work for me, but I may look for something new to put on the ol' birthday list. I would like a flat bed and some modern QoL improvements built in (he said, side-eyeing the BLTouch clone he never installed), but I'm still looking to play in the shallow-end, price-wise, and anyway Bambu just has "future enshittification" written all over it. I don't do anything time-sensitive, and I'm not afraid to put the whole thing together, so who are the current leaders in the value space? Recent machines from Creality?

So I'm trying to get my printer to a point where i can pretty consistently turn out high quality prints, but I'm at a point now where i get results like this. These two prints are from the same batch, same print job, and I'm completely clueless on how to fix it. I have an ender 3 v2 with a bltouch, I've adjusted the eccentric nuts, tightened the belts until the tips of my thumb and index finger couldn't tighten them any further, bed is level, using hatchbox pla. I know i can do ironing to fix the cosmetic problem, but I'd prefer to fix the root issue if possible.

Upgrades include:

• Frame made of steel tube
• E3D V6 clone and E3D titan clone
• Noctua heatbreak fan
• SKR Mini E3 V3 board
• Raspberry Pi running Klipper
• G10 build sheet
• Bed insulation
• ATX power supply
• BLTouch

Probably missed a few in the list

I'm actually not afraid of printing things larger than a few square inches on the bed.... Waited way too long for this. Tightening up the eccentric screws on the bed carriage so it doesn't wobble also helps.

Conference in outside Baltimore, MD.

Also good for composting and making room in your recycling bin

The Super Notendo is now fully universal you just need to go through the effort of making 4 very, very small USB cables.

I got some blank male and female ports and cut wires that were just long enough. It's cramped but it works!

Both versions here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6771121

Thank you guys for pointing out the vref issue in my last post! I got it adjusted, and they were all fairly high so now they should be dialed in. While I was in there, I figured I should probably calibrate the extrusion steps as well.

I’ve got a couple larger projects coming down the pipeline. But if I can go off of this cube, I think I’ll be in good shape.

Hi there!

I'm looking into getting myself a good printer and I am wondering if I need to install some platform-specific drivers for them to run. I am running Debian 12 (GNU/Linux) and I am afraid that I must run some proprietary blob to connect to the printer.

Could someone share their experience please? Even if you don't use Linux, your feedback would be very appreciated!

(Also, while you are at it, please share some recommendations for printers, I don't really know where to go (>v<) Have about +-500€ )

1)You get thru downloading the thing since it advertises support for your printer, 2)Click on it to start using it right? 3)Right? 4)X out of the login window because you don't have a login and don't want one thanks. 5) Put the newly downloaded file in the trash bin. 6) Right click on the trash bin and "empty trash" 7-10) Relax for a bit since you don't have yet another data collecting app spying on you. But then post about how shitty the experience was.

I can't believe anyone would actually create a login to use an app like this. Fuck that. I will just use shitty chitubox for now. Fuck^2, but at least I don't live in some shit server with all my 3D models stolen or my credit card or GPS or whatever the fuck they want to get from me. I'm sure chitubox is already doing it, but hey I don't need a password for that.

Lots of stringing but as I understand that's normal for TPU. Printed at 225⁰C on a 30⁰ bed, stock Ender 3 S1. 0 retraction, 0.93 flow, 35mm/s for most speeds

My (first?) 3d printer arrives tomorrow. I've been researching for months. One category I've been looking into is 3d modeling software. They all have drawbacks (too expensive, too hard to learn, save files in the cloud, etc) but the one that seems to fit the best is this apparently new one called Plasticity. I'd be willing to spend the $150 and then decide after a year if I want to re-up or just keep the current version. Or maybe I'd upgrade every few years or something.

Anyway, there are a bunch of great reviews and tutorials but they're all over a year old, from when looks like the software was first released.

I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with it and could advise if it's worth the $150.

Just got my Saturn 4 ultra, and it just doesn't seem to be very good. I'm toying with the idea of sending it back and paying the restocking fee, but that's a lot of money (and shipping fuel, etc, etc) to waste.

Upgraded from a Mars 2 Pro and Mars 4, and I just can't believe how clunky the Saturn is. The build plate is too tall and too crammed into the case to make a decent tilting adapter, and a ton of resin gets wasted when removing parts. The touchscreen UI is almost as bad as the Mars 4, with horrible use of screen space (multiple prints with same name but different date at the end? Too bad, you can't see any part of the title past the first two words) and poorly designed features.

I'd be interested to know if anyone has this printer or a similar one figured out, and is actually enjoying using it.

My wife likes to sculpt model horses for fun and she wanted some base heads that she could attach and sculpt/paint over. So I made her some of these little guys.

The following is a 14 minute edutainment upload presenting the funicular hanging chain and other techniques of deriving optimal structural compression geometry using the opposite form in pure tension (sounds more complicated than it is), by Architecture and Design Professor Stewart Hicks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRv_syz2DAc

This is a must watch as it shortcuts math and modeling in useful ways for design with minimal materials. I'm sharing as a 3d printing FreeCAD parts designer that likes to integrate all elements without printed supports in every possible case. The funicular draping chain idea is very much adjacent to how I think about integrating elements into a print design. I have designed with shells that integrate my structural elements, but this upload was an aha moment that takes my empirical design process to a new conceptual level. Modeling structural elements and knowing the math to apply can be challenging, but this kind of principal is a very useful shortcut. More info in article form: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funicular_curve