Hi all, i have this wear indicator and i am unclear what it exactly measures. I have a 11 speed chain that i am trying to measure and it almost fits. On other wear indicator tools i see they put 0.5 % / 0.75 % / 1 % annotations on it, that would have been helpful here too.

I looked at the documentation but it is not mentioned. When i put it next to a ruler, it think the indicator length is about 89mm.

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/576-CHAIN-HOOK-&-WEAR-INDICATOR

I had my first dropped chain... as in, the chain fell completely off my bike. The side of one pin on the KMC missing link appeared to have popped right off. Nothing else was missing or damaged.

That link was the original and had only been removed once since the chain was installed, approx 900km before, when the cassette was replaced around 800km ago.

The only recent change to my bike was buying new wheels, but other than reindexing (at the LBS), shifting was excellent before and after the wheel swap.

Was it just bad luck, or is there something that might have caused this that I should watch out for?

The replacement link says reusable (Original KMC), but perhaps the original with the chain isn't as strong?

I'll note that this happened on a very casual ride, so no added weight, hills, or power going through the pedals. I shifted and it fell off. 😵

I got a new GRX, that has a dropper remote in left lever, but it takes the cable with the end. My dropper takes this end too. So I found a solution. Part of X01 chain fits on the cable very well and can be soldered on. There was not a lot of space to do this, but on 2nd try I managed to make it stay on and could not pull it off with pliers. I really hope it will stay put, because it was a PITA, but it worked. So if you run into this, you are very welcomed to steal my trick.

Has anyone applied the pressure recommendations given on Silca's site: https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form

From what it tells me, I can safely put in 30 to 33 PSI of pressure in my Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 tires (26"x2") on poor roads. This would be below the min 35 PSI listed on the tire, and about 20 PSI lower than what I've ever run them at.

I'm not too terribly worried about punctures, but do worry about pinch flats.

Thoughts?

Hi all

The rear wheel of my ebike started making an extra whirring/whining noise last time I rode it. It only made the noise when the motor was engaged and under load, not while coasting. The noise got louder as the load increased. Also this bike is relatively new, bought from ALDI's special buys. I could get a refund from them but they won't have any stock to give me a new one.

There was also some oil/lubricant coming down the hub face, either from the hub itself or from the rear sprocket which also acts as a free hub.

I thought one of the sealed bearings in the hub might have let go but they are fine. There seems to be no lubricant in the freehub/rear sprocket (Is this normal?)

I opened up the hub to see if anything is going on in there and the grease looks odd? could it have been overheated at some point? If I do replace the grease what should I use?

Last month, for the first time in thousands of KM, I got a flat tire.

It was fixed (replaced tube) and I've happily ridden another 400km since.

But I ride at nearly max pressure for the tires, because I assume this was caused by a pinch flat. At the time this flat happened, I was not running low pressure, but lower pressure than I am now (50psi vs 60psi, perhaps), and it happened on a very low speed ride on a smooth trail... no hard hits.

This was a new tube that I installed about 350km earlier, so maybe "user error."

But can someone tell me what might have actually been the cause of that type of flat?

No relation to the creator, I just found this vid useful and haven't seen this guy before.

Just saw this crack in my tire, don't like the look of it. Is it still fine?

At the beginning of the season I bought a beautiful teal 1988 Trek 1000 and have been riding the hell out of it. Unfortunately all that riding has come at a price, Ive ruined two rear wheels(rims) over the span of a few months.

I know I can tuck my tail and head back into the shop to have them lace me up a new wheel (they got me back on the road for a good price the first time) but I'd like to take a stab at building a wheel myself.

So my question, how hard is it to build a wheel?

• I've watched the park tools wheel building and truing videos and I'm sure they make it look easier than it really is.
• There's a few shops around me that do "open shop" hours a few times a week that i plan on taking advantage of if i actually do this.
• I also looked at just getting a new wheelset but then discovered the freewheel vs cassette change and the old hub width is the old 126mm standard and decided it might be easier if i just learned to lace a wheel and put a new rim on.

(I guess I'm actually just looking for some encouragement, tips)

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.one/post/3195595

A couple years ago, no tools 😅. I was commuting between home and campus just a mile away, so if something went wrong I'd just lock the bike and come for it later.

Nowadays, just a few to do an inner tube & chain replacement, and some other small bits that might come in handy.

• 2 spanners (one adjustable)
• Backup lights & head torch
• Tyre levers & adhesive puncture patches
• Mini track-style pump
• Screwdriver for the chain enclosure
• Pliers for the rollerbrakes and internal hub gear cables

Picture

I've found the head torch to be surprisingly helpful... Had a puncture in the dark once, and without that I would have been there a while lol

Another designed and 3D printed tool added to my toolbox. This time it is for cleaning individual pistons on Saint / Zee calipers.

It easily rotates 90° by hand.

After rotating it:

Hey gang. I'm building up my bike repair tool set, and it looks like I'll either need to get a set (or several popularly sized) cone wrenches and/or an adjustable wrench with a thin profile.

I figure an adjustable wrench could help service anything from axles/hubs to headsets, which cone wrenches are limited to the size(s) you've got.

Any advantage/disadvantage of one over the other that I might not realize?

I have a nice 26" wheelset with Araya RM-17 rims I'd like to use for an old Mtb to gravel conversion. I thought I might put some Gravelkings I have on. I mounted one on the rim, and it looks like a legit balloon bike wheel. It really looks wild to me. Maybe because I've never seen this combination. Most of the charts I've found suggest 2.0 is the max for 17mm inner width. Will it make much of a difference if I go up to 2.1? I'm thinking it should be fine if kept at a reasonable PSI. Just wondering, has anyone used this combo, and had any issues.

My pump won't stay on my valve extenders because it does not have the threading required for it to grip or stay on the valve. Is there any solution to this? Perhaps some sort of adapter?

Would anyone know if the shifter can be used with a vintage XTR 9-speed rear derailleur? I intend to use it in a 10-speed build for an early 2000 GT frame.

Hi all

When I'm on the biggest wrong on my rear sprocket I can hear a light ticking noise when I pedal.

The noise goes away when I keep the shifter pressed down, as the chain is then properly aligned with the sprocket (I think)

How would I adjust the derailleur to fix this? Do I need to change the limit screw or just the tension of the cable?

Pointers into the right direction are appreciated 😅

Thanks!

Normally when gears wear out you just replace them, but hub gears (like Shimano Alfine) this means rebuilding the entire wheel.

Any recommendations for getting them working better without a lot of cost & expertise?

The idea of waxing my chains sounds really appealing, especially since I absolutely hate how dirty my chains get no matter how thorough, or often I clean them.

But I've heard that chains should be waxed often... like every 100 miles, which seems like a lot of work for not a lot of riding.

Is this true, assuming dry, clean riding conditions?

I've been trying to find suitable brake pads for these brakes on my bike; Kool stop and swiss stop have both been recommended as brands, but i can't figure out which actual pads to buy.

I'm not picky, and mostly ride in dry conditions, just want to make sure I buy something that i can mount on my bike and will work!

Building a parts bin bike, on an old Gary Fisher Advance frame. The only thing I need to buy is a bottom bracket. The current square taper 73/113 is toast. I checked the 94 Fisher catalog and that was what it originally came with stock along with a triple crank set, the largest ring being 42t. The only crank sets I have lying around have biopace rings both have 48t on the largest ring. Out of curiosity I installed the drive side on the 113 mm spindle, and the largest 48t ring of the triple just hits the chain stay twice each rotation because of the ovalized ring. Where it's not hitting there still wouldn't be enough clearance for a 7/8sp chain. I think if I went up to a 118mm it could work. Do i just measure the current chain line and add 5mm? How much offset until it badly affects shifting? I've also heard it can mess up the taper on the crank arms. Not overly concerned about the components being a parts bin bike. Just concerned about clearance and good shifting. Should I just the go 113mm spindle and then buy new smaller round chain rings? Thanks

This took me a while and with the help of team mechanic we solved it. Thanks Ryan

Problem: Set up of new Eagle 2 Transmission drive train. Poor shifting or derailleur binding on #2 cassette ring

Steps:

1. Cursed at it on the first ride. No affect.
2. Tried micro adjust but not happy with locations of all indexed gears. No good solution for all gears.
3. Drank beer and complained until I found someone to listen to my little violin’s sad song

Solution: Removed RideWrap frame protector from direct mount derailleur location.

Outcome: Happy riding and less sad beers

I have a Bacchetta Idler Bolt here. Better image from Bachetta. My issue is the Idler bolt is too long and is causing my Idler to go back and forth, which was fine when I had a cassette, but now I have an IGH, and I don't need it to slide. The sliding is causing my chain to pop off at the chainring. If I had a smaller Idler bolt, it would not slide.