Climbing

My money is on Brooke!

I'm getting into trad climbing, after quite a few years of indoor and outdoor sport and bouldering. I'm very aware that trad climbing involves more risk, especially if you climb above your ability and/or are bad/inexperienced at placing runners. Does anyone here have tips on how best to practice protecting a route to the point where you feel safe enough to climb a difficult crux with only trad protection below you?

Interestingly it was originally graded 8C by Nalle. Webb also gave it 8C. Raboutou however graded it 8C+ and Murai seems to agree with it given his IG post.

https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/murai

Angelska, 6b+

Célébration, 5.10b.

The Instagram post mentioned in the 8a article was also reposted by other athletes.

2 weeks ago Alannah Yip also made an Instagram post about it which was also reposted by other athletes. Link for those that don't have Instagram

IFSC has released a statement yesterday: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/1004-ifsc-statement-athletes-health-and-the-ifsc-medical-commission

I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.

My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.

I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.

With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.

I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.

I thought it was a great final.