Console Repair

So I picked up this Wii, and it appears to be softbricked. Original SD card is not included but I suspect it was a bad mod or something. The GPU DOES output, but the only thing it produces on screen is a black screen with a single white dot in the top right corner of the screen.

I am unable to boot into recovery mode via spamming buttons/DPad on the GC controller.

Any suggestions on how to fix/unbrick this?

Just wanted to say I feel very much accomplished and like a techie now.

. I've been looking for a couple house and just can't find them all. Do any of you have some decent resources for this?

My test game finally came in and I was finally able to test the system. After first it still gave me the blinking light, but a quick easer, ipa, then dexoit treatment to the game fixed it right up.

So far I've

• Cleaned the edge connector with the same easer, ipa, and dexoit treatment.
• Removed the old, rusted power board and built a new one
• cleaned the board and case

What's left:

• Sand and paint the old case after filling in cracks and gashes
• Beat Super Mario Bros 3

Still waiting on my test game but the system powers on.

Followup to the rusty NES board, giving the shell a good clean. My process is to soak the shell in hot, soapy water for a while, then clean it using different brushes and cloths. This one has enough damage and stains in the plastic that I'll probably need to paint it to make it respectable again.

I like to avoid using a magic eraser since that is basically taking a fine sandpaper to the shell.

One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.

What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?

Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?

Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.

Was able to pickup this fairly cheap (blinking light). While I'm waiting for the test game to come in, figured I'd get started cleaning up the board

I have an NES front-loader where I fried something in the "silver box" that handles power and A/V (this NES part has no consistent name in the repair/modding community, that I can tell, so I'm calling it the front loader's "silver box").

I was using poor technique with my multimeter trying to test the voltage regulator and I think I shunted 12v to ground. I have an entirely socketed NES for chip testing and all of the IC's work fine. The issue seems entirely limited to the silver box.

Rather than try and rebuild the silver box, I was thinking of seeing what "no-cut" options are out there. TheRealPhoenix used to sell Borti's no-cut NES-IO but COVID part shortages made the PIC it relies on hard to get, and he lost interest in returning it to production as certain features it had are now unnecessary (e.g., game controller activated in-game reset and palette mod changing is now available with v4 of the Tim Worthington NESRGB mod).

Does anyone know where I can order a "silver box replacement kit" that has the following features: (1) interfaces with v4 of NESRGB, and (2) uses a mini-DIN for RGB output and also has s-video output?

I know I could locate an appropriate PCB that comes with a BOM (parts list) where I could source parts separately, but I'd rather buy a kit.

A lot of the bare PCB's that are posted online seem to require trimming a corner of the NES PCB or the internal case to make it fit, or rely on cutting a hole in the brittle NES case to install a SNES multi-out)

Givent the above info, can anyone recommend either:

• a no-cut kit that is available for purchase, or, if none exists,
• a straightforward PCB that requires no trimming of the hardware or the case with a BOM/parts listing that doesn't require unobtainium

Absolute nightmare. Not just leaking batteries but several components had to be replaced on the front. Ridiculous amounts of contact cleaner in the card slot. Copper plate ground so corroded I could peel it off like wet toilet paper. Removed it and soldered all the contacts together. Bought for 5 bucks, only took about an hour to fix.

I recently picked up a syringe of Chipquik SMD291 tack flux to play around with, I'm just getting into doing smd stuff... and I find myself using it for just about everything because it's so easy to use, works a treat, and is fairly easy to clean up. What flux do you like to use? Do you have different ones for different uses, or do you tend to just use one for everything?

I love how Adrian Black shows what the scope should look like for the C64 on power on, etc. but I have never seen anyone do the same for an NES. It would be a fascinating video. Anyone seen anything like this?