13
submitted 1 week ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Hello!

So I decided, as a way to improve my cad skills, that I would take an old laptop of mine and design a case around the motherboard and use it as a micro PC in my work area. I have nearly all of it designed, just shy of the power button.

On account of not having a sautering iron, I would rather avoid sautering a button on and was trying to go a more analogue approach by printing a button into the case that could maybe use a compliant mechanism to press in and come back out, but I am very uncertain how to go about it.

Any help appreciated

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Soldering is nothing like welding. Neither task is particularly hard, although welding takes a bit more coordination. Soldering is about as hard as using a hot glue gun or microwaving a meal, or scrubbing a toilet.

When you've never done it before, it is easy to build it up in your mind. Here's the things that matter:

  • acid core solder is only for pipes in a home
  • flux is important and the mess it makes is not
  • for just a small job, any soldering iron is fine, as is any solder
  • wet everything you're joining with flux and the solder will wick into place
  • the tip of the iron should be shiny with solder before you start, and this may involve a good bit of solder added to the tip and then removed by a wet sponge or wire ball made for the task

An adjustable iron is nice, and you'll likely find that eventually you will use it for threaded inserts in prints. There is a lot of marketing about irons and junk, but it is hard to beat the value of one of the Chinese 936 Hakko clone irons. Most of the marketing junk is to try and obfuscate the value and availability of these clones. The Hakko 900 series tips are the defacto standard and there are many extra accessory options available that are only possible with this tip/iron type. Last time I checked a 936 clone is usually under $40. The actual circuit board required to build one is under $5 on AliEx while the iron handle and lead are ~$8. You don't need this for a basic job, but an adjustable soldering iron is a lifetime useful tool to have on hand.

Good solder makes a big difference on bigger projects when you're doing this a lot. However, if I was in a zombie apocalypse, I could easily make a single solder connection by heating the tip of a screwdriver in a candle flame, use some resin from a pine tree, and a chip off of the pewter candlestick holder to solder a button to a circuit board.

Buttons can be a bit challenging with 3d printing design. It depends on your goals, but clearances and textures matter a lot more than it may first appear. It is possible to get something that just works, but is loose or crude. Getting a button like the inserts that go into a typical video game controller are quite challenging to clearance and develop a consistent tactile feel. I've done this in practice and it took a lot more iterations than I expected.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

I'll suggest Weller irons as a solid alternate as well, pretty much the only irons I've used in the last decade or so, mainly because the job I soldered in a lot used Wellers, had some lower end variable ones beat to hell in field bags that still run perfect today (actually my dedicated insert iron). I have a WE1010NA that I use now and it's a solid tool.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

The issue with Weller is their price in a competitive market.

Considering no alternative the entry level Weller is fine. Ersa has their awesome itool with this really short distance between soldering iron tipp and finger grip: https://ts.kurtzersa.com/electronics-production-equipment/soldering-tools-accessories/soldering-desoldering-stations/produkt-details/i-con-pico-1.html

Performance: Weller and Ersa are more or less equal. For generic solder joints both are great. If there are high thermal mass and it isn't possible to use a large tipp than the Hakko T12 is the superior technology. Changing tips on the Ersa (while not recommended by the manufacturer) can be done with the iron heated up and tool free within 5 seconds.

Ergonomics: 100% Ersa. The only reason it has been my daily driver for half a decade and is here to stay. Before this station I actually had a Weller.

JBC has a similar tool handle to the Ersa but those are very expensive with little benefit.

The price to performance king are genuine Hakko T12 tipps with a China station.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Oh for sure, totally appreciate that Weller is pricey, and I'd totally expect good tips on a knockoff to perform well. For me it's going to come down to preference, wish I could try a bunch of different irons before buying, I at least had experience with wellers so I knew that I found them comfortable to work with and I'm not doing a ton of surface mount or fine stuff so meets my needs.

load more comments (3 replies)
load more comments (3 replies)
this post was submitted on 03 Jul 2024
13 points (93.3% liked)

3DPrinting

14841 readers
10 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS