[SOLVED] cause: not enough cooling for overhangs
I increased cooling on overhangs from 60% to 100%, and decreased overhang (10-25%) speed from 100% of outer wall speed to 85%. Issue went away completely and it now prints nicely 👌
I've started printing parts for my voron 2.4, and it's generally going well enough. The parts are looking pretty decent. But I'm having a hard time getting good results with overhanging sharp corners. They tend to warp upwards as seen in the photo on the left side. The prints stick well enough to the build plate and I don't have any other warping or adhesion issues.
Is this because my cooling for overhangs is too much?
I generally print with no part cooling in an enclosure. Temps are 245°C on the nozzle and 105°C on the bed, using 60° fan speed for overhangs. I'm printing on a anycubic kobra 2 with azurefilm ASA.
I printed all my parts on my old i3 clone inside a couple of cardboard boxes taped together. They weren't pretty, but they were pretty functional. I did reprint my stealth burner and it looks a ton better than my first part, but in terms of function there isn't a whole lot of difference. The nice thing with plastic is that you can always mechanically trim material if needed. Most of the Voron parts are pretty forgiving too and don't have super critical dimensions.
As for why your overhands are warping up, it's likely your cooling as you guessed. ASA does not like big thermal gradients and fan + passive chamber heating will result in that. I printed basically all my parts with zero cooling and didn't have any real issues other than the stealthburner. On that note, plan to print bedfan mounts at a minimum. Something like the filter is nice to have if you plan on printing much ASA or ABS. If you're building a bigger 2.4 you might want both...
Wow yeah that first one is pretty terrible looking 😅
I'm decently pleased with mine though, but I'm really looking forward to the quality on the voron. I actually already have "the filter" on my current printer (slightly oddly placed in the tent, but it works), and I just connected it directly to the printer PSU and manually turn it on/off with a toggle switch.
Very nice! My i3 clone was over extruding quite a bit in hindsight. It also has a non-gear reduced extruder, which results in a lot of extrusion artifacts :(