- Try increasing hotend temp for first few layers and hotbed temp throughout
- Try moving z closer for first layer
- Repeat both of above in small increments
FWIW, those PEI sheets usually need higher bed temp than the regular sheets
this post was submitted on 18 Feb 2024
23 points (96.0% liked)
3DPrinting
15138 readers
11 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
Try increasing hotend temp for first few layers and hotbed temp throughout
the default from the printer was 60C. I had some better results with 70C. But the issue still happend with more delicate prints.
those PEI sheets usually need higher bed temp than the regular sheets
thanks. I didn't know that. What magnitude are we talking here (like: 10K more for PEI-sheets? or more like 1K?)
Try moving z closer for first layer
I think this may be the solution. How much should I change the z-offset? (the print in the video has 0.2mm layer height. And the worst-adhession issues happened with 0.1mm)
K Kelvin, not K thousands of degrees... It's too early to think.
You may also have a bed flatness problem, if it's not a dirty plate.
Thanks everyone. I raised the initial temp by 5 degree, and reduced the z-offset by 0.05mm. It looks great now
it is printing the fidget star now. Note, that each star has a thickness of 2 walls. The 1 corner is a little bad, because i took to much to time adjust the z-offset.
Those are a lot of fun to play with! Glad you got it working! Textured PEI sheets are great for PLA in general. Usually a good wipe with isopropyl alcohol before a print works to keep the adhesion strong. I find every once in a while actually washing and scrubbing it with dish soap and hot water is needed to refresh the PEI surface.
It looks like the extrusion lines could be smushed down a bit further onto the build plate, can you set your z-offest downwards a bit so that the lines merge together more?
I like that idea. I haven't even thought in that direction.
By how much should I change the offset? The print in the video has 0.2mm layerheight. But the worst results (i.e. total print failur) happened with 0.1mm.
Have you tried scrubbing the plate?
My prusa mini plate probably looks awful, but there is a layer of hot glue on top which helps. Once my first layer is down, I drop from 60 to 30c. Also, I find silk just sucks as a base layer. I often use some black pla as a base then switch after base.
120grit sand paper give it a scuff and rubing alcohol before each print. That solved almost all of my issues with bed adhesion and let me get away with it where normally it would fail. Anything else it's probably out of level bed or actual frame of the machine has a bend or low spot. If your z offset was bad you would have that happening all over the the first layer. If you have a bl touch on your set up, make a grid amd write down each number if there is a difference in the corners it's bed level If it's middles / sides it's a low spot in frame some materials tolerate out of level better then others.