this post was submitted on 06 Jul 2023

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How to heat up a bolt without damaging stuff around it (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

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I am working on my integra's front suspension, but 3 bolts are rust welded. My impact gun managed to get one off, but the others wont budge. I hit them so much that the impact bit got too hot to the touch. Sprayed with penetrating fluid, hit it with a hammer etc.

My only other option is heat, but the problem is, that it's a wheel well and it traps heat, not to mention there is a brake hose which is very close to the area I will be heating.

How can I contain my propane torch heat to this specific bolt without damaging other areas?

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

Soak them overnight in penetrant and then use the biggest breaker bar you can find. 36 or 48 inch, usually 3/4 or 1 inch drive.

You could also try cutting a notch and using an air chisel to try and vibrate the rust loose while spinning the bolt.

Remember, left is loose, right is tight.

EDIT: Also, what impact are you using? Cordless half inch? Pneumatic 1 inch? What's its reverse torque?

Also, depending on how parts have worn, you can try using a floorjack under the wheel to try and relieve some pressure on the bolt. Not a lot of lift is needed, but sometimes bushings go bad and the suspension locks its own bolts in.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

DeWalt DCF922, 320ft-lbs I will try using the floorjack

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Left is loose, right is right. And orientation flips psychologically when the nut points toward the ground.

Not going to say how I learned that the hard way...

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

I always hated that expression of left is loose, right is tight. Bolt is not a line, it's a spiral.

Clockwise to tighten (numbers on clock go bigger) Counterclockwise to untighten (numbers on clock go smaller)

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

If that scares you, wait until you find out about left-hand thread bolts. For those bolts, left is tight and right is loose.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Which bolts? can you remove the part they are stuck in? Might be a lot more work but way better than a car fire in a garage

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Barring that what about the mats that plumbers use when using a torch to solder copper pipes in the walls?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Whats that?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

https://www.amazon.com/Inch-High-Felt-Plumber-Store/dp/B01NAJZT8Z

You can find it at big box hardware stores usually with the torches and plumbing supplies

Here’s an example of how it works

https://youtu.be/Y0tYARlv1hA

They do get hot… just very slowly.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I am unable to remove the part without removing the bolts:

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

Looks like a tough one, don't forget you may be able to cut and replace the bolts. I would try a sledgehammer and a metal rod to knock them loose, maybe let it soak in penetrating oil for a few days if you can spare the time. I've never had luck with heat but I also don't use a real torch. Also, although it would be an insane thing to do, you may be able to remove the lower control arm and the shocks in one piece to get better access to those bolts (aaand the axle looks like it would have to come with it)

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Access isn't that bad, just worried about melting the brake hoses. Hitting it with a sledge? I don't have space for a sledgehammer down there lol, but a hammer didn't help much. I will try cleaning them up a bit, use different penetrant, hit it again with impact and heat

But I am looking for options on how to protect from heat

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Good luck! I usually let my vehicle sit taken apart wayyy too long when I get to that point. I'm interested in what else is posted, I usually just don't use that much heat because I'm afraid to melt stuff.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

The answer to the question in the title is an induction heating device.

But for this particularly issue I would use a combination of an air hammer and penetrating oil. Hammer it to break up the rust, spray it with oil, wait overnight and try to remove. Rinse and repeat until it comes out.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

You'll melt the bushing if you heat up the bolt on the lower control arm. I would grind off the nut with an angle grinder, probably the easiest way. Make sure to load up the suspension a bit to get the bolt out easier.

Edit: After getting the lower bolt off you can remove the entire strut from the car and figure out how to get off the shock clamp bolt.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

No, I cannot, not enough vertical space for that. I have managed to remove the lower bolt on one side because it was greased before bolted in and I have to remobe both bolts to remove the strut.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

To get the strut out, you also have to unbolt the upper control arm at the ball joint. I had this car for 16 years and have done it this way several times.

Edit: also unbolt the sway bar if have not done so.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 year ago (1 children)

You could always try using electricity if you can get to the other side of the bolt. Hook up each side to a voltage source and if you pump enough electricity into it you can make it glow

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Sounds tempting. Is there a risk I will damage the wiring harness?

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 year ago

That's a terrible idea and a good way to fry an ecu.

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