Grass

I still haven't had a better arena shooter experience than back in the xbox lan over the internet days

The steam deck is kinda inconvenient when any level of tinkering is required due to switching between game and desktop mode and the input if you dont attach a keyboard and mouse. Non-deck distros lose the quick settings which I really like.

Try bottles too. you may or may not find it easier than lutris. I find the dependencies easier to install. After checking if anyone has already documented what dependencies are needed (directx, dotnet, etc.), I usually start with the default wine bottles uses, then try wine-ge and tkg at least before giving up. I have yet to find a game that cant be made to work but other software can be very finicky especially once dotnet is involved.

Bazzite for my gaming pc, steam deck, and family members. It just works and they cant fuck it up. Even brother laser printers official drivers installed for my mom's comp. Gotta check the details of that cups exploit though. My gamig pc is also the fallback pc I expect to always have working and for servicing any others if problems come up.

Arch or arch based, except manjaro which has screwed me over too many times, for having easy access to pretty much any software that can run on linux, or just stuff that requires too many hoops to jump through to get working on atomic distros like bazzite.

Dietpi on my SBCs like the ones running klipper for my 3d printers

Debian for my servers, homeassistant etc, but I'm planning on checking out coreos.

Also alpine just because.

instant pot, air fryer pot lid, deep fryer for things air fryer can't do. Everything else has linux or is controlled from a linux server.

I didn't know about concord until it was announced to be shut down.

I didn't know about lego horizon even more than that.

I could see riding one of the fully enclosed quad or trike type, but I would miss being able to easily bring it inside. Although here it would probably just get stolen, or get run over with me in it by a big truck. The other day in the wind storm I actually got lifted from my bike by the wind and the roof add-on seems like it would just have caused the bike to go flying with me...

some people use a 'drip wax' as they go but I am not able to tell if it makes a difference when I tried it. If it is beneficial it's either one of those "only an athlete could feel the performance increase" things or of benefit to the chain itself. I don't use it, though partly out of leaving it in some dumb place and losing it. Some people only recommend hot wax for dry cycling, but I just use it anyway and do my kinda silly drying.

when I get home or to work I just use the garden hose to rinse any muck down the drain (indoor wet area both ends of route so no frozen hose), bounce the bike on the tires a bit to shake off a bunch of water, then use what is essentially a glorified sriracha bottle to squirt the isopropylene directly on the chain to displace the remaining water. dry season I just go straight to isopropyl. I have thought about things like if the iso can get in and ruin the grease in the bb or ruin the paint, etc. but never really looked in to it. seems fine after doing it from the beginning of last winter to now for my bike at least, but I'm not any kind of scientist or engineer.

Immersion waxes I do whenever I feel like it's not quite necessary yet but can't hurt, plus before and after winter. I used a chain wax off amazon, forgot brand but its kinda dark grey or blackish, in a second hand slow cooker.

My procedure is heat wax, rinse chains and swish in the tub of old yellowed iso (or degreaser then rinse then iso if new), hang up chains vertically and straight or folded in half, heat gun to melt the old wax and let it drip a bit, then put in the hot wax with a bent wire hook around the center pin and swish it. I use chopsticks to wiggle all the links a bit and to detangle the chain without burning myself. After hanging it to dry if the wax looks thick or uneven I heat gun it again to smooth it and reduce the wax chain dandruff and prevent janky shifting while the excess wax is being shed off the pivots.

I do 5-8 at a time and any that seem like further use will permanently worsen them I store for the next time I have enough chains waiting to justify heating the wax. I just rinse and iso and flail it around to dry for storage and even go extra and bag it with dessicant because I have a jug for 3d printer filament anyway.

As a side note, if anyone knows any reasons I shouldn't do any of this please let me know. I have heard from one of the waxing tutorials online that long soaks in degreaser can worsen the structural integrity of the chain's metal so I keep that to a minimum already.

indeed have not seen anything like it before... are current solar panels able to handle that kind of wear and tear though? Also seems uncomfortable

nice to see more gearbox motors. hopefully this turns out to be good.

front loaders are so much better for diy maintenance and repairs. that bike looks like you would have to join 2-3 chains of the length they are typically sold in to make a replacement. you can also easily see if something falls out too.

for a regular bike, I replaced all my rusted bolts with titanium ones and aluminum for ones that are not under load, hot waxed chain with no drip wax ever and a bottle of 99% isopropyl that I use to flash off the water. I used to take the chain off and dunk it but work has infinite iso so I just use the pinhole sprayer directly on the chain. If I cared about the finish of the frame maybe I wouldn't do that but it doesn't seem to affect this one.

this, big time. The amount of times where I had migraine with the vision impairment on the day of an appointment, unable to drive and farther away than I could safely get to on my own by any means if I could manage to fumble through any to begin with, and nobody able to bring me.

then just remembering which meds go to my elderly birds, elderly grandparents, and which go to me