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joined 8 months ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 hours ago

If you have a TV, you likely already have the receiving device. Antenna can cost, or you can play around with wire length and orientation.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 hours ago

It's mostly so that I can have SSL handled by nginx (and not per-service), and also for ease of hosting multiple services accessible via subdomains. So every service is its own subdomain.

Additionally, my internal network (as in, my physical LAN) does not have any port forwarding enabled


everything is over WireGuard to my VPS.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 6 hours ago

For a while I thought the Google AI result had a pretty logical, well thought out, practical solution


use glue.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 13 hours ago

I am devastated that I got rid of my 2000s HP LaserJet (with Ethernet). Only flaw it had was that it didn't have a duplexer.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 13 hours ago

In addition to the financial implications, that's why we're stopping at 2. We get kids, the kids get a sibling, and it's a little below replacement level.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago (2 children)

My method:

VPS with reverse proxy to my public facing services. This holds SSL certs, and communicates with home network through WireGuard link configured on my router.

Local computer with reverse proxy for all services. This also has SSL certs, and handles the same services as the VPS, so I can have local/LAN speeds. Additionally, it serves as a reverse proxy for all my private services, such as my router/switches/access point config pages, Jellyfin, etc.

No complaints, it mostly just works. I also have my router override DNS entries for my FQDN to resolve locally, so I use the same URL for accessing public services on my LAN.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago (1 children)

The grid needs to balance input and output. You can't just "throw away" power.

It's a real problem


not the "electric companies are losing money" part, but the "we need to keep the grid balanced" part.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago

Concentrated solar and wind are a bit different though?

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 day ago

Afaik photovoltaics are fine running open circuit, i.e., disconnecting them. Thermal solar, and wind, are (I think) much trickier (but covering things for solar thermal, like you suggest, is perhaps feasible).

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago (2 children)

No, unfortunately, you can't.

Ground doesn't typically dissipate power, rather, power is dissipated in the circuit/load


so if you just hook a wire to ground, you're dumping gobs of power into the wire. If you do this in your home (DON'T), best case it will trip the breaker, worst case it will melt and catch something on fire.

It's easy enough to burn a kilowatt


just boil some water. But it's entirely something else to burn megawatt, or yikes, gigawatt scale power.

[–] [email protected] 26 points 1 day ago (6 children)

We tend to use between 3kWh (vacation/idle power consumption) and around 8kWh per day. If we switched to electric stove, water heater, and heat pump, and add a hot tub, that'd increase substantially. But if we added solar (on our long Todo list...), the battery in the article (60kWh) would probably be able to handle all our storage needs, and it'd fit in he garage (bonus of it can be placed outside/under a deck!). I live in a major city, but I would absolutely love to effectively be off grid.

Exciting stuff


it seems these are touted as being extremely robust/safe, which is of course important for me if it's going to be in/near our house. Storage density not a huge concern, but price is somewhat important


let's hope this sort of thing ticks all the boxes.

[–] [email protected] 69 points 1 day ago (7 children)

Guy buying condoms? He's hoping to get some.

Guy buying tampons? He's definitely getting some.

 

Noticed a few days ago that Sutro Tower's red blinking lights are now white. Just asked them on their website form, but wondered if anyone else knows the story with this.

Personally, I miss the red ones!

6
submitted 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Howdy!

I got my Technician in early 2000s, and last year finally upgraded to Extra. Looking to set up a very basic shack.

I'm looking for an HF setup, with most of my use probably using digital modes, but would like the ability to use voice.

Current transceiver is on loan from girlfriend's dad, a Ten-Tec Scout 555


50W HF unit with separate modules for each band. One limitation of this is that the modules set the mode, so it's LSB on 40m, making e.g. FT8 not possible (without some hacking of code or perhaps hacking the module).

Antenna is end-fed with an off-the-shelf 49:1. Currently only have 20m half-wave, but have just enough room for a 40m half-wave in the attic, which is the ultimate goal.

For digital modes, it looks like there are sort of 3 classes of radio:

  • "full digital" where the radio has e.g. a USB port and handles audio, transmit, and frequency set.
  • Some computer-control with RS232, but uses computer audio+adapter to transmit.
  • No digital, use adapter to transmit. This is what the current setup uses (and it works great!)

I'm leaning towards a conventional transceiver, e.g., something from ICOM, Kenwood, Yaesu, (or others) rather than an SDR unit. I'd like the ability to go up to 50-100W if possible.

I don't have a hard-and-fast budget; would like to keep it <$1000 if possible; mostly just looking at used transceivers. Something like a Kenwood TS-590 looks pretty amazing and very "plug-and-play" (but pushing up against price). Something like a Yaesu FT-920 looks pretty feature-rich too; and even something more affordable like an ICOM 706 or even a 725 is probably more radio than I need. Or just grab a new 7300 and call it a day!

Anyway...clearly, I don't know exactly what I want, but figured I'd ask folks with more experience if they have any wisdom. Thanks!

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