Curious_Canid

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 20 hours ago

Exactly. The rich will be able to buy privacy, while the rest become ever easier to exploit.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

When your whole political movement is based on fear and hatred, things like this are inevitable. They fear and hate each other only slightly less than they fear and hate us.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 days ago

Carter was the first president I voted for when I turned 18. He's one of those rare people who has always lived his principles. He still gives me hope for our country.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 days ago

I really look forward to your reviews. They are both informative and entertaining.

So far I've managed not to run out any buy of these knives, but strangeness has always been a positive selling point for me.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 4 days ago

There are thousands of great pen bodies out there at prices ranging from "that seems like a lot for a pen" to "Oh my God who pays that kind of money!" :-)

Classic pen companies like Parker, Cross, Waterford and Lamy make some beautiful pens at many different price points. Smaller operations like Big Idea Design, Autmog, Tactile Turn, Nottingham Tactical, and many others produce small batches of pens designed for enthusiasts. The market currently tends toward industrial design styles and unusual mechanisms, but there is something for everyone.

Just bear in mind that high-end pen bodies are primarily about the enjoyment of beautifully made things. They can offer great ergonomics, exotic materials, different weights and balances, efficient or interesting mechanisms, and amazing looks. Some of them qualify as real art. They do not add that much to the functional aspects of the act of writing.

A lot of cheap plastic pens aren't particularly well designed, but some are amazing. You can generally find one that will work for you on a functional level for under $10, if that's what matters to you.

There is also a huge rabbit hole involving the different shapes and sizes of refills and which pens will fit which. It helps that most fancy pen bodies are design to fit the standard Parker refill. That is by far the most popular form factor and is available in every imaginable from hundreds of different manufacturers. The Pilot G2 refill is probably the second most common form factor. Just make sure you end up with a pen body that will fit whatever refills you like the best.

One of the reasons I like the Big Idea Design pens is that most of them can be adjusted to work with almost any refill. They are the perfect platform for experimenting with different refills to find the ones you really love. The refill actually makes more difference to the overall writing experience than the pen body.

Like most hobbies, everyone has there own preferences and opinions. These are just mine, so take them with a grain of salt and figure out what matters to you and what works best for you.

And if you want to see just how much trouble it's possible to get into, you can take a look at my collection.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 4 days ago (1 children)

That's perfect. And she won't mind if the stitching is off.

[–] [email protected] 13 points 5 days ago (2 children)

I saw an article a year or two back that talked about this very thing. It was actually management people at Amazon saying that they predicted they would be "out of employees" before the end of this decade.

[–] [email protected] 24 points 5 days ago (3 children)

It's simple. Turn this into a blanket for her. Then make a bag.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 days ago (2 children)

I used to do this for all my notes in college. I rarely do it anymore, but I do keep around a pen for. I use the Uni Sigmo UMR-82 Gel 0.28mm in a Big Idea Design Bolt Action.

I was torn between the Sigmo 0.28 and the Hi-Tec-C 0.25. They're both amazing.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

The 519As in the light I EDC still have their domes. I have another light where the domes were removed and I prefer them intact, particularly for this combination. Removing the domes shifts them from flood toward throw and lowers the overall output by 10-15%. The W2s provide all the throw you could want, so the 519As are there to provide a good flood around the hotspot.

If you do decide to de-dome, bear in mind that it shifts the color temperature warmer by around 1000K. So if you want to end up around 4000K, buy the 5700K LEDs to de-dome.

The overall throw of the DT8 lights is something of a compromise, but it isn't bad. I suspect I'm getting over 500m of effective throw from mine. The W2s have a lot of reach and the sheer volume of lumens helps too.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I actually recommend the Emisar DT8K Dual Channel. It's the light I EDC and I sometimes also use it as a bike light. I find the 21700 grips more comfortable than the smaller 18650s. The strange shape makes it thinner in the pocket than anything else with a comparable size of head.

I suggest the Dual Channel loaded with one set of W2 LEDs and another set of 519As. That combination provides a lot of throw in the center with a lot of flood around it. If you want finer control you can configure it so you can adjust the relative strength of each channel, which will effectively act like zooming in or zooming out.

Overall it's the most versatile hand light I have. And it's oddities make it nearly ideal for us as a headlight.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago

I hadn't noticed, until this post, that there were options for the icon. Mine is now set to O.G., but I will probably switch back-and-forth between that and Progress Pride.

 

I've been struggling with how to make sense of what the far right likes to call patriotism. Our democratic system of government is at the core of what defines America, but many of them are willing, and in some cases eager, to destroy that.

It finally hit me that what they love is not their country. They love their control of it. That is why racism, misogyny, homophobia, and other irrational hatreds are so deeply tied into far right movement. Only people like them should be allowed to have a say. The acceptance of diversity that began as religious freedom and has expanded to encompass all differences, directly threatens their control.

I wish that insight pointed a way to deal with the problem, but it really points up how intractable the problem is. There is no compromise that will satisfy both sides when one side is demanding complete control over the other.

This may be one of those problems that can only be solved by newer generations, who tend to have less rigid views of the world, gradually replacing the hard liners.

 

I always carry a couple of good knives with me, but I have lately gone on a utility knife kick. I'm not sure I want to carry one, but I definitely like having them around the house for opening boxes.

I don't think I've found the perfect one yet, but I do have some a like quite well.

The Oknife Otacle Pro is my favorite. It is small and very slim, but provides a good grip. The blade is completely covered, so I can use hook blades without worrying about exposed edges. The mechanism provides one-handed deployment with excellent safety. There is a neat little clip that works well and doesn't get in the way.

The mechanism is actually very good, but it gets terrible reviews. That's because it desperately needs to be lubricated and it comes from the factory dry. Mine was pretty much unusable until I sprayed it down with ToughGlide. Now it's one of the smoothest I've used.

My second favorite is the Nexland Sliding Utility Knife. The mechanism is very clever. It involves just a few pieces of titanium with no fasteners or springs. It should be pretty much indestructible. It's easy to use with one hand. Changing blades is simple and quick without tools. It also gets extra points for preventing the blade to drag along the track when it slides.

My honorable mention is the Screwpop Ron's Utility Knife 3.0. The mechanism is incredibly simple, but it works beautifully. I can deploy it one-handed, although it takes some practice. Changing blades is obvious and easy. There is also a magnet that can be used to attach it to things. The price is low enough that you can keep several in strategic locations around the house.

It is also worth pointing out the Outdoor Edge Slidewinder, which may be the best choice for the average person. The mechanism is more complex than I prefer, but it works well. There is a spring that retracts the blade as soon as you touch the button, which is a nice safety feature. It's a little bigger than the others, but still small and handy. There's a decent clip. There is also a slotted and a Phillips screwdriver.

I have also discovered some annoying limitations along the way. I put Lenox Gold blades into all my utility knives, but I've run into several that don't work with them, or with many other standard blades. They frustrate me.

The Oknife Otacle (non-Pro version) uses a different mechanism from the Pro that requires holes through the central axis of the blade. That rules out most utility blades.

Milwaukee Utility Knives are among the best, but the Compact Slide, which I wanted for its relatively small size, will not work with blades that have more than two notches at the top. I couldn't believe it and ended up taking it apart, but it really won't accept them.

The Manker UTI Edge is a nicely minimalist design, but it is just a tiny bit too short for a lot of standard blades. A fraction of a millimeter difference would have solved that problem. I also have some concerns about how well its lock holds.

Has anyone else gone down this particular rabbit hole?

 

I'm pretty sure I used to get emails when I received a notification, but that hasn't been happening for a while now. I do have the "Send Notifications to Email" checked in my settings and I have verified that my email address is set correctly.

Are email notifications working for others? Can anyone suggest things I should change to get them working?

 

The rules seem to imply that pocket dumps are required. Can we also post reviews / comments / discussions of EDC items here?

 

I am experiencing a technical issue that I can't even explain, let alone fix.

Short Version: My laptop's video link to our television regularly drops out for 10-15 seconds when anyone steps too heavily on a particular area of the floor.

Long Version (because I don't know which details might matter):

My wife and I regularly participate in video meetings with friends, so we have a setup for it in our living room. My laptop serves as the computer. It is connected to a Thunderbolt 4 hub on a side table to the left of my easy chair.

There is a video adapter connected to the hub. 20' HDMI and USB cables run along a wall to the left of the table to connect the hub to the television and the camera that's mounted on it (Logitech Brio 4K). Another 20' USB cable runs behind the chair and forward along the right side where it connects to a microphone (Logitech Yeti X). The microphone is on another small table that extends out into the room just in front of the chair arm.

My wife uses an easy chair immediately to the right of mine. The microphone wire runs between the chairs, but does not touch either. None of the cabling or devices are in front of, behind, or to the right of that chair.

The problem is that when my wife gets up, the tv picture often goes black for 10-15 seconds. The television indicates that it no longer has a signal during that time. Then the picture comes back and things return to normal. During that time, the camera and microphone both continue to work normally.

The drop-out happens when she puts weight on the floor immediately in front of the chair, not when she puts pressure on the chair to get up.

Occasionally the drop-out will happen when one of our dogs (50-75 pounds) jumps down from the chair onto the same area or when someone walks across the area. The section of floor where this happens is no more than a couple of feet square, starting at the front of the chair and extending out in to the room. There are no cables or wires in the immediate vicinity on the floor and there is no electrical wiring under that section of floor.

We have speculated about static electricity, but there is no obvious way it would get into the microphone wiring across at least an 18" gap. I also replaced the microphone's USB cable with one that is better shielded, which made no difference.

So what could cause the video signal to drop-out when someone puts weight on a section of the floor with no apparent connection to any part of the system?

Any theories or suggestions would be welcome. We are genuinely mystified.

 

Is there any way to disable auto-play in Voyager? Video plays automatically even in the feed. I would rather nothing played without me telling it to. I feel like there must be a setting, but I can't find it.

 

There are plenty of politics communities, but they all seem to focus on posting and discussing articles. Is there a community for posting political ideas and opinions?

 

Has anything been heard about the Kuru Toga Dive in the last few months? It looked like a very interesting pencil, if somewhat overpriced. It was released, but never in more than small batches, and now seems to have disappeared.

25
GOAT Multitool (www.goat.tools)
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I've had my GOAT multitool for a couple weeks now. It's big feature is swapping the tools, but it has other advantages as well. The spring-loaded pliers are great and they use a "frame-based" spring that should hold up to heavy use. The bit driver will hold every type of bit (standard, double-ended, Leatherman, etc.) reliably and is somewhat offset toward the center, similar to the Gerber Center-Drive. One end of the tool is flat and reinforced to act as a light-use hammer. All tools can be removed, which means you can adjust the GOAT with the built-in Allen wrench and sharpen it with the built-in metal file. It includes a replaceable-blade X-Acto tool.

An inobvious, but potentially huge innovation, is making the tool and scale templates open source. Anyone can produce additional tool implements that will work in the GOAT. That could be a game changer if it catches on. Think about specialty toolsets for different professions, for example. Likewise, optional scales can be produced in any material or design.

The downside is that the current GOAT is clearly a first-generation tool. The tools clump badly. The "tool removal levers" clump with the tools, which can be a real problem. The pivots have to be carefully adjusted so the "springs" (the frame backs) will hold them all inside properly without being too stiff to fold out. The lock release mechanisms are awkward.

I would not have been comfortable carrying mine as it came out of the box. Fortunately, most of the issues can be fixed, or at least improved, with very little effort. Maxlvledc did a wonderful video on YouTube that talks about the issues and provides suggestions on how to address them. It was a big help to me and I recommend everyone with a GOAT watch it.

The things I did to "fix" mine were fairly simple. I added a thin shim washer (5x8x0.2mm) between each of the "tool removal levers" and the other tools. I re-arranged which tools were where and removed the washer next to the wood saw. Finally, I loosened the pivots a bit to help hold the tools inside the frame. (It seems like that should work the other way, but the pivots need to be somewhat loose to let the "springs" do their jobs.) Now it works quite well.

What do the rest of you think about the GOAT?

 

Can SnapRaid restore the a lost drive in the case where the other data drives have been written to since the last sync? My understanding of the principles is probably just lacking, but I worry that using parity based on the other drive's data would only work if the data on the other drives had not changed since the parity was last calculated.

So do I invalidate my last sync as soon as I write new data to a drive in my arrray?

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