I love in Colorado, which is a pretty dry state, so while I had heard of "wet filament", I never considered it to be a problem that I would have to worry about. I had seen people creating dry storage bins for their filament, but figured that must just be for people in humid climates.

When I first bought my 3D printer a few years ago, I did what most people probably do - I bought a 10 pack of different filament colors. Everything printed great for a while, but eventually, my prints just started to kind of suck. I made a few upgrades to my printer, but still couldn't pinpoint what was going on. What was frustrating, is that some times my prints would be great - but other times I couldn't even print the most simple prints without problems.

I eventually noticed that my great prints were from newer filament that I had recently purchased, but my bad prints were coming from spools I've had sitting out for a while. So I purchased a $40 filament dryer on Amazon and it instantly fixed all the problems I'd been having.

I feel dumb, because I had gone through three different extruders, new hot ends, new nozzles, tubing, and spent tons of time cleaning and tightening stuff on my printer. I had left my printer untouched for months because it was just so frustrating. Something as simple as old filament left out never occurred to me until much later.

TLDR; If your prints have started to suck after a while, you might want to try drying your filament.

It’s just this design, lightly sanded and painted.

Hi everyone, a week ago my printer (heavily modified Neptune 3) started randomly shutting down in the middle of prints. I come back to a print with the "Klipper reports: SHUTDOWN / Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'" error message.

The printer has been "under construction" for the last couple of weeks, but it has been in varying states of "working" for most of the time - working well enough for me to print the parts I needed to get it back to "fully operational". During this time, the printer never shut down like it is now.

Only once I started making little cosmetic changes did the problem present itself. I was running a known-good print, and I got the above error twice (first time after ~2 hours, second time after ~1 hour) before I got a successful print off of it. This was last week.

After this successful print, I continued other prints with no issues. After a day or two with no problems, an hour long print threw the error at me four consecutive times between 10-45 minutes into the print. This is when I started looking into my klippy log and found some relevant articles citing things like EMF interference, bad power supplies, faulty cables etc. I realized that one of the changes I had made rerouted the printer USB cable right around the Z-stepper, so I rerouted it to how it was originally and immediately managed a successful print. This was 5 days ago.

After moving that cable I had no issues with printing several-hour long prints... until last night. I had been printing all day, then the problem came back. After one print finished, I queued up another print with a plate full of parts, it failed after 1.5 hours. Tried the same print again, failed in 30 minutes. I re-sliced to only a handful of parts to see if I could get those to print before the error occurs, and it's failing 15 minutes into the print.

The printer power supply is the unit that came with the Neptune, and it isn't powering anything besides stock hardware (exception being the SKR mini board), so I don't think it's that. The pi is on a quality unit. The USB cable has been working for a long time so I also don't suspect that, but I'm probably going to buy a new one today just to be sure. I adjusted my enclosure setup so that the Pi and SKR are able to get cool air (at one point had a personal fan pointing at the open electronics box, still failed).

Here is a link to my most recent klippy log (abridged to the start of the last failed print). I'm not very familiar with reading through this and finding oddities, but I do think it's strange that it seemed to load my preheat script in the middle of printing right before the EOF error. (It should be noted that this preheat script was made 1 or 2 failed prints before this most recent one, so it isn't the source of the error as prints were failing before the script was made). If there's anything I'm missing or something else I can try, please let me know!

Edit: While typing this post, I was running the same failed print without filament and both heaters turned off. It ran for about 45 minutes (most recent failure occurred at 12 minutes) so I cancelled the print and started it again with heaters turned on, still without filament. It again ran for about 45 minutes, so I again cancelled it and started the print again, this time with filament loaded. It failed in 5 minutes.

Edit 2: A test print with heaters on and no filament failed after 1h8m. So it isn't an issue with extruding filament.

Edit 3: New cable with the 5v leads taped off per @[email protected]'s advice. Ran the print without filament until completion. Reloaded the same file with filament, print ran without issue until the 1h14m mark, at which point I tapped my Klipperscreen device to wake up the screen, and as soon as it displayed the status, the printer errored out. This can't be a coincidence, can it? Whenever the print goes unmonitored for a long time, it fails as soon as I do something (load mainsail, turn on the klipperscreen) to check the status of it.

Would be so kind as to suggest a printer for me? I have no experience at all with 3D printers or 3D modeling. But I am super interested and have electronics and coding knowledge. I would like to print things like brackets, enclosures for custom circuit boards, organizers, keyboard plates, etc. Ideally I would like to spend around $300USD, but I am open to going as high as $500USD if it would save me headaches and make the experience more enjoyable and streamlined.

Please suggest something for me and let me know if I didn’t provide enough information. One final note, I live in range of a microcenter if that is a factor.

Edit 2: I purchased the Bambu A1 mini. If I regret it, there will be more chances in later years. Haha. Maybe by then I can work with resin and make the really fun minis. Thank everyone who responded for your advice and help.

Edit: I am leaning against resin printing due to the lack of sufficient ventilation in my current work space and the potential for injuring my cats. I also do not plan to do exclusively miniatures; they were just the thing I was most excited for when making this post.

I looked around for a pinned thread or purchase wiki type thing, but didn't see one. I apologize if this is the wrong place.

After visiting a family member, I have decided that 3D printing has finally gotten affordable enough for me to maybe add to my list of hobbies. My primary use cases would be making miniatures (no particular scale necessary, as I just like to paint them at the moment), making parts for other hobbies (including cross stitch), and just generally making gifts and fun knick nacks. My budget is no more than $250 for the machine itself. I have not-insignificant computer experience, and some training in CAD programs.

Several seem to be on sale in the US for Father's Day (today), and I was wondering if anybody had some advice or suggestions on some specific ones.

• Creality Ender-3 V2 is what my family member has had for a while now and enjoyed, and less than $200 is very nice. It does seem to be dated at this point, and Creality support seems to be lacking.
• There's also the Neo of the above for the same price, but I am honestly having a hard time pinpointing the difference.
• Sovol SV06 seems to be a common recommendation for the price range, but I've heard similarly negative things about their support, especially on Amazon (although I no longer trust Amazon reviews very much).
• Flashforge Adventurer 5M appears to be on a significant sale on their official eBay (240 USD), but I have only really seen it recommended in almost spammy manners, which seems like either excitement for the sale or an ad campaign.

Any help you can give is greatly appreciated, even if it's just not getting into the hobby at this price point.

Update: TL;DR: I cleaned the z-axis, replaced the nofep, installed the latest Chitubox (2.1) and cleaned up my profile to get it working

Hello, I hope someone will see this and be able to at least point me in the tight direction. As at this point I’m becoming desperate.

My Epax E10 4k is acting up, and I do not know why.

Part of the print is fine (see images) and then other parts are just stopped at a certain layer, with the rest stuck to the noFep.

I tried different prints, to make sure it wasn’t a layering problem, but alas… each single print suffered from the issue. The larger prints would ‘hang’ over non-printed layers…

I recalibrated my printer, changed the fep…

The one difference from before is the resin. I used to buy epax hard and tough, but my regular resin dealer doesn’t sell them anymore, heck it seems it is no longer available in europe. So I switched to the next best thing on the Epax compatibility list: eSun hard and tough.

Anybody have any clever idea?

I upgraded to this guy from the neo v2, and he is a beast in comparison. There isn't a premade profile on prusa for it though, so I made one using the neo as a base. Currently have the speed set to 150 mm/s and 1800 mm/s accel but was wondering what kind of speeds y'all are getting while still having consistent quality

I mostly loved my K1 Max but could not get the x-axis dialed in properly, so any time I tried to print anything with a circle it would come out a bit lumpy. I'd sold my CR-10 and upgraded because I was tired of the constant tinkering and just wanted a tool that, while it will need maintenance and the like, would mostly just do what I wanted. Also my BIL got a P1S and I was hugely envious of the AMS system haha.

Luckily a buddy was looking to upgrade as well and is buying my K1M off me so I ordered a P1S and just got it set up today and.....it's just working and I'm so happy. Benchys between the two look about the same, although the textured build plate gives a nice bottom layer, but I printed a couple trinkets my wife likes to hand out at Disneyland and it's just night and day better quality.

I'm sure I got a bit unlucky with the K1M and lucky with the P1S but it was amazing just printing stuff and it came out fine the first time.

I made a configurable Task planner that you can easily edit using OpenSCAD customizer (or various compatible customizers like the one on Makerworld).

I've posted this here once already some time ago, so here's what's changed:

• tasks can now be provided as a comma-separated items
• font can be changed in customizer (added due to a request for Korean language support)

This seemed neat!

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

My MissChanger project is a Stealth Burner tool-changer system for Voron 2.4 and Trident.

And it is going along great 😚

"You need to buy this special heater pad to break the screen adhesive!"

No, I think you will find that in fact I don't.

No banana for scale, but let's say that it's not too big and not too small. The dimensions are 295mm tall, 270mm wide, and 240mm deep. If I had to do it again, I would be tempted to go a bit wider and touch less deep. It's probably better to be large in one of these dimensions as opposed to both of them.

Here's the top. It has a jack for charging, a connector to program the DSP, a switch to turn it on and off, and a battery gauge.

The speaker also has a built in handle that's way chunkier than it appears, but is still particle.

The big BOM pieces are a Dayton Audio LBB-5Sv2 for the BMS (battery management system), a Dayton Audio KABD-250 2 x 50W for DPS, amplification, and Bluetooth, a Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08 tweeter, and an Italian-but-made-in-India woofer (a Coral PRF 165).

The print itself is three pieces: the bottom bit (black), the middle bit (white, blue, and white again thanks to not having enough white left to do it all in white), and the black top. Here's a CAD view that more clearly shows the three pieces:

the three pieces are held together with heat-sets and m3 bolts. There's also a tong and groove like joint to help the enclosure leak less air. I haven't noticed any evidence of air leaks while listening.

The amplifier and battery board mount to the bottom like so:

The middle was printed with some supports for the driver overhangs, but the ports and everything else were designed to print in place without supports.

This is certainly not meant to be audiophile build, but it's surprisingly decent. This isn't my first blue-tooth speaker, or even my first printed loudspeaker enclosure, but it is the first that was somewhat intentionally designed to have OK bass response while also being reasonably compact.

It measures fairly well. Frequency response, along with harmonic distortion, is pretty good. There's zero windowing or smoothing on this plot. I suspect the distortion spikes at 1 kHz, 2 kHz, etc are induced by the Bluetooth stack the board is running since they've shown up in multiple different enclosures and with multiple different drivers.

There's no nasty ringing, caused by either the drivers or the enclosure, so life is pretty good:

Hey guys I got the bambu P1S a couple months ago because it was recommended. I'm super new to 3d printing. This is my first one. I'm not new to electronics or computers. I ran a few of the built in prints, a dinosaur puzzle and this scraping tool but both came out fuzzy and in poor build shape. What can cause this? Shaky table? Cold temps (the printer is in my insulated garage getting around 65 degrees at the moment inside)? Is the stock bed bad? The filament it came with bad?

Thanks for any advice.

sauce, relevant highlight

Hi guys, been thinking about this for a couple weeks now but can't seem to find anything online about anyone who has tried it.

I'm considering converting my printer into a voron. However, since I currently have a fully functioning printer, I wondered why I can't print the extrusions rather than purchasing them? Of course they are larger than my printer's volume, but there was this video posted here a while back about a great way to create strong permanent joints for parts just like this:

https://youtu.be/zI8OgRRF5d8

The way I would do this would be to model the extrusions as a solid piece and make cutouts in the areas that bolts are meant to be ran through.

Is this even within the realm of possibility, or is there a specific barrier that has prevented others from trying this? The obvious concern is stability/ rigidity, but if everything is printed at voron part standards or thicker with an infill pattern like gyroid, would the decrease in rigidity be too much for input shaping to compensate for?

Thanks for any ideas or input! If there aren't any major road blocks or examples of this failing I think I'll try it out once I've got the space for it.

Hello,

I am trying to figure out which printer with multi-color capabilities to buy, and I'd like to hear some other people's opinions.

Note: I can't buy Bambu Labs products, so please do not recommend one.

Current options:

• Prusa Mk4 and MMU3.
• Voron 2.4-style (either Formbot kit or Sovol SV08) and ERCF, and eventually DAKSH toolchanger.
• Ratrig V4 and the upgrades when they come out.
• Creality K2 Plus (when it comes out).
• Qidi Q1 Pro and the rumored multi-color unit.

My current thoughts:

• I am happy wait a bit if that's the best option.
• I like the fact that the MMU3 mechinism doesn't waste as much filament as some other mechanisms. It's easier for me to pay more up front for the mechanism than constantly keeping tons extra filament in stock.
• The potential for a Voron to be upgraded to a toolchanger with DAKSH is intising.
• High print quality is important to me, although I can't imagine any of these would result in bad quality.
• Prusa XL is outside my budget :(

Please let me know your opinions, and thank you to anybody who read this far.

I am curious how often do you service the linear rails on the 3D-printer:

• How often do you lubricate them (MGN9 or MGN12)?
• How do you lubricate them?
• What volume of lube do you use?

Don't think I've seen this before. Don't even think the author has things for sale from what I can tell. Couldn't find an obvious option on any of my models to toggle this either.

Anyone know what's going on?

Total clog with prusament pla in line. Can't feed anything through even at high heat. Cold pull not possible / filament not making it into hot end to do this.

You can see little bit of filament sticking out in photo, but with pliers this just tears.

Should I try heating up the whole hot end tube with a soldering iron to see if I can liquify the clog out?
Any other ideas? I can't find many good resources about what to do in this situation online. Also, obviously needs to get cleaned up a bit, but does picture of my hot end tip look pretty ok? Do I need to bite bullet and get a new hot end? If so, are Amazon off brand replacements ok, or do I need to wait for one to get shipped from prusa?

Thank you

So I run a repair shop in Altamonte Springs, FL - Got a weird one that searching the internet only turned up 1 other instance of it happening, so I wanted to post some details on the repair in case someone else runs into it or in case Creality doesn't admit that it's a thing.

Creality K1 Max - Symptoms: Unable to finish initial calibration. X and Y Axis moving twice as far as commanded, auto leveling absolutely destroying the build plate.

Initial steps in fixing this were to replace the main board. Creality shipped some of these printers with some interference around the main board which could have screwed up the drivers. Many references to this across the internet.

After replacing the main board, it still would not get past the input shaping setup, so the next thing to replace was the toolhead board on the K1. It seems the accelerometer on this one was either A: Damaged by the customer in their attempts to fix, or B: Faulty from the get-go.

After replacing the toolhead board, the machine would get past the initial input shaping, but it would do it in the back left corner of the machine (from experience, this should be done in the center of the plate). So upon homing, I also noticed that it wouldn't regularly go all the way to the front right of the machine. When commanded to go X negative, 10mm, it would go like 24mm instead.

In the end, I needed to: Replace mainboard, Replace toolhead board, let the machine crash into it self for 20+ minutes while going through Auto-leveling on the initial power on stage, connect it to your network, upgrade the firmware, DO NOT HEED the warning that you need to auto-calibrate again.

Follow this guide to root it: https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/helper-script/helper-script-installation/

THEN, after it's rooted, install Moonraker/Nginx, Moonraker or Fluidd, then connect to one of those interfaces, edit your printer.cfg and change rotation distance to 72 for this variation of machine.

If you notice that the sensorless homing is not acting perfectly due to the different step-size of this machine, driver_SGTHRS: 55 is the configuration option you're looking for, and you need to set it on both X and Y. 55 worked for me, but the default is 75. 0 is least sensitive, 255 is most sensitive. I had to set mine to be less sensitive to finally work.

Once you've made these changes, you can save/reboot and test out homing/movement once again. If everything seems okay, go ahead and run the self-test to complete the repair.

Tiny desk shelves for kiddo. Stl https://www.printables.com/model/713135-tabletop-shelf-rack

Here is the reverse side:

For the long and short of what this is. I make 3D Printable e-reader cases that are held together by stitching cloth or leather. Up to now the cover had the magnet as a part of the design, but with no way to upgrade or change it out. This is my solution for that.

With 8 screws and a tight fit, the cover can be swapped out when you upgrade or change out your e-reader. That way you can keep the case itself and just upgrade the components you need when you need it.

Still testing it, but very happy with how it turned out.